I think I am going with something like this version, for now anyway Testing it I like it so far cause I have more locomotives on the layout at one time or rolling stock. And I can make it my Smooth-It type area also. It's needs adjustments for sure during the testing. And I still have to add my spur back for the refinery if I choose too. Still working on it to see what track plan I actually want? Also, repainted the base so I can figure out new roads and scenery, structures, etc... Don't want to go too far up with area as my Modern Gas Station goes up there. Or at least it did Nothing is decided on yet, just testing track and such. This version just added some structures and the roadbed would be the area of the spur and connect behind the gas station, me thinks?
I really like the distribution of rail- and non-rail-served establishments on your layout! Sometimes you gotta go with what you have (e.g. left vs right turnouts), but the engine yard would be much more compact (and realistic) if it were constructed using right-hand turnouts for the ladder. That would eliminate the additional curves and excess space between the tracks. The two back-back turnout motors (one being part of the inner/outer loop crossover) are also forcing the mis-alignment of the rest of the engine yard. If you want more space between yard tracks (for ease of access with your 1:1 fingers), then insert short, straight track pieces between switches on the ladder. I would also consider relocating the siding for the refinery to behind the refinery, but depending on operator access to the far side of the layout, that may not be practical. Pay close attention to track alignment, lest derailing gremlins infest your layout. Mis-aligned tracks also open up rail joiners, compromising their ability to reliably conduct power along the tracks.
Thanks for the ideas. I have to adjust some things such as the switch/turn out in the top 11" radius area, as Atlas switches are so large ( the black part ), and my locomotives get caught on them at times, but I have so much of Atlas track I am sticking with it. So can you explain the Right hand turn turn outs for the ladder more please. I have removed one ladder so now there are only 2 of them. Still working on it and testing. Going to try the spur behind the refinery too. But have to move the turn out entering it as my locomotives get stuck entering in reverse. Which is how I need to drop the rolling stock off. Here is the current version, constantly adjusting things So far though my inner 9 3/4" loop and my outer 11" radius loop all have full pieces of track, but before this I had all kinds of small pieces of track creating them. Of course this might change? Also in the end the if I can all curves will be made with flex track for less pieces and joiner connections. That's probably where I have to add some smaller pieces of track to make it work? And the reason for the angle track in the refinery area is I can get more cars on the track as opposed to making it go straight Just part of having a 2' x 4' base.
The latest version of many I am sure. Time to take a break from the layout and think about it. I'll run trains of course as I am enjoying it and why I love DCC so much, even on such a small layout. Pretending basically, and having fun! Notice the track is behind the refinery this go around. Not as much space for rolling stock. Think I like it in front of the refinery, and more track to park cars? Speaking of that, where can I find N Scale CSX gas/propane cars/rolling stock?
I personally like industries to service if possible so... ... maybe something like above and you could still park a car or two there if needed for another reason. Sumner
I suggest moving the propane dealer to the front of the layout, adding a spur for a small industry near the refinery (in red), and having the road (in blue) start at an angle to about the middle of the layout and then run parallel to the front until it exits on the right. My thinking is that having another short industrial siding adds another place to switch and allows the small manufacturer to move from the front to the back, the propane dealer moves to the front where the siding is longer to accommodate propane tank cars, the remaining siding would still be a loading dock, and the angled road has more room for structures and is visually more interesting. I hope my suggestions are helpful.
Okay, to me (I may be wrong), a yard ladder is the track that has all the track switches (turnouts) on it. I suppose some could also use "ladder" (rungs) to describe the stubs off the switch ladder. Sorry for the confusion. In your post to which I replied, your yard at the bottom/front of the layout was not as efficient and compact as it could be. While you used a left turnout from the mainline, you then used a curve, and then another left turnout for the first (bottom) yard track. You could instead use a right-hand turnout there, and get rid of the preceding curve. Ditto for the remaining turnouts in the yard. In summary, if you are having to use curves between turnouts, try changing out the turnouts to opposite handed ones to get rid of the curves. On the other hand, (and I had not considered it) if you do not want a yard, but separate industries, etc. on each track, then I would insert straight track sections between right-handed turnouts to get the track spacing you need, so that the train pushing the cars onto the spurs does not have to keep changing directions. Trains want to go straight, and unnecessary curves can cause problems (derailments), especially when backing a long cut of cars to their destinations. By using the correct switch (left or right-handed depending on the situation), you keep the ladder track leading to the stubs nice and straight, and easy to back onto.
Alright, fist of all I went into the garage and looked at the 6' ladder...how in the hell is this suppose to fit on a 2'x4' layout. He must be talking about something else YouTube is my friend, so I removed the 6 foot ladder from atop of the layout and ended up with what I think you were talking about Of course that is all NOT true at all, but fun to type. I must say though I tried using a right hand switch last night, not knowing the ladder term, and was completely confused till today. Now I only use Atlas tracks and turn outs so it does not and will not look as good as some without the Black switch part, but it is what it is, and thanks to @BigJake , it's exactly what I wanted even though he knew it and I did not Kind of funny really. Remote switches will be replaced with manual ones, as I sit right next to them when operating, yeah right, I meant playing with the trains. Thanks a ton everyone for suggestions, etc... Like one of those channels ( me thinks NBC ) ... The More You Know Or something like that? And here is hopefully a LADDER? A very small ladder indeed. I know I am putting a bunch of WS Wooden Pole lights in that area, like next to each track, me love light's. What else goes in that kind of area? And IF I can, Smooth-It, if I can? I'll take a photo with a bunch of cars on them later. I can't wait! Going to try and remove the re-railers, but not sure my eyes can, without help form them. I'm the only one that will see it anyway, unless I share photos. I am going to try and remove the small straight piece of track but don't think my locomotives are going to like it till I glue, nail, down the switches this time?
Well this is pretty much the layout plan. Hopefully soon DCC drops again, and 3 Turn Out switches. The rest manual switches at some point. Two momentary switches throw 2 turn outs in symmetrical order and One for the spur by the refinery. I have no clue how to do scenery on the layout, never have, but when we get there figure it out somehow. Guess I'll try things and see how it goes? Never knew I was looking for a Ladder setup And no extension needed ( well I have the other base if needed, but seldom get it out of the attic ), all on a 2'x4' base, for now Took out the straight piece starting the ladder. Will see how it goes.
Much, much better. As for the re-railer tracks, I would use them where you will have streets crossing straight tracks, since that's what they look like. Typically, railcars are manually placed on the layout in a yard or on a siding, rather than directly onto the main tracks. It is also common to use re-railer tracks inside tunnels, near the entrances/exits, to minimize derailments in hard to reach areas like deeper inside tunnels. There are also re-railer ramps that can be temporarily placed on straight sections of track. I know Kato (Unitrack) has a good one they sell separately, that should work with any N scale track.
Also keep in mind that the Unitrack magnet uncoupler is also a rerailer...of sorts. ...much like the road crossing rerailers... JMO https://www.hobbylinc.com/kato-magn...n-scale-nickel-silver-model-train-track-20032
Again thanks for the ladder suggestion, much appreciated. Had this thing for 20 years at least Now when/if I add Smooth-It to make the concrete looking area, I have to add some roadbed underneath each ladder spur so it will be at the same height as my other track on roadbed, correct? When I get there. I can't live without this thing Use it all the time! When I can. Amazing I still have the same one after 20 years or more? And it didn't break. Now I have jinxed myself Any other ideas about scenery, track placement, etc... fire away. Not saying I'll use them but can't hurt. About scenery, it's not big enough for my to put $100.00 for a static grass applicator, and not sure I really care about it. Can't I just use some package grass I have and spread it with a plastic spoon or something. Not even near that point yet, just asking. I don't anticipate much grass TBH. What items and scenery go in a ladder area? Of course I want Smooth-It if it will work? I mean a tiny shed, pipes, etc... tried the Service Track Structures I use with the Refinery, won't fit in between the tracks, yet. Next is rough in of the roadbed, DCC drops, 5 turnouts wired for 3 momentary switches, etc... Might have to buy some new roadbed?
Regarding roadbed: yards, industrial sidings, etc. are often not on as heavy a roadbed as a mainline. The former does not have to support traffic at speed, which makes a difference. It can also help prevent wayward railcars from rolling out onto the mainline, causing a serious crash with a train at speed. So you could use little or no roadbed on your yard and industrial trackage. Just affix the track to the surface and ballast (it takes less ballast too, since you don't have to cover the slopes on either side of the tracks. I would create tapered roadbeds to transition between the main and the sidings, by shaving/sanding down your normal roadbed material. This is one of the benefits of conventional flex and sectional track, over the Unitrack that I use. Unitrack's attached roadbed is as thick as it is because the Unijoiners are much taller underneath the rails than conventional rail joiners, and need the roadbed to create vertical space for them. So it can't be removed or shaved down for industrial trackage like conventional roadbed can. But the supporting structure of the joiner pocket in the roadbed, around the Unijoiner, helps make them so effective and electrically reliable. Plus, the attached roadbed houses built-in switch machines, out of sight under the tracks, but above the layout. There are trade-offs no matter what track or method you use, and only you can decide what works best for you.
If you are building on foamboard you could recess it down into that possibly. I love the foamboard, such a nice surface to work with even if one doesn't carve into it at any point. Sumner
One of those cordless routers for woodworking would make quick work of the trenching, and control the depth accurately too. They have a much narrower base to get in tight spaces better than a full size router. But if you had everything planned and drawn out on the foam board surface, and cut the track trenches before you installed anything else, it wouldn't matter, at least on flat surfaces. You'd still need to cut the transitional trenches (from mainline- to local-height trackage.)
kATO makes flex track with Unitrack tie spacing... https://katousa.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/21-000.jpg You can easily go from their raised track bed down to plywood for a yard...
Time to put the roadbed back in. Might have to buy some new to replace some? We will see as I am planning on painting it this time around. The new LED light's help a ton.
Do you soak it? I learned that from Joe and his Sayrehurst Secondary build. Start with some warm water and a couple drops of dish detergent in a bucket that is the diameter of a 5 gallon bucket but shorter, maybe 3 gallon?? Works really well. Take it out of the bucket and run a knife down to separate the single piece into 2 if it is a new piece. Run my fingers down it to take excess water off but leave the rest and attach it with wood glue. Sumner
