First things first: Hacker Valley is completely fictional. Second: My original thread was fairly in depth, but my photobucket and my pictures here unlinked, and as such I have a picture-less thread. So, the plan for this thread is thus: Post some pictures of what has happened to this point, sans talking. Once I reach current events I will resume commentary. If anybody has any questions regarding anything I do or don't talk about, just ask! Begin:
Thanks for taking the time to do this. (PITA, I know!) You might want to go back to the top and insert a link to the other thread (while you still can) so people can read your "talking" there and you won't have to repeat yourself here. Looking forward to your progress!
Between the time I posted these at work, and the time I read your message, time had expired lol. Oh well. For anyone interested in reading the gumph (which may not mean very much) Click Here Today's work: It'll look better when the rest of the scenery gets down as it will cover up all the stray granules. Lawd do I hate ballasting. And next up are the two interlockings... yuck. I swear it takes hours to do this stuff. To this point about half of the layout has had the track painted and boy do I love being able to do it out of a can. Other than that not too much too report. Might cast some rocks tomorrow, break out the scupltamold. Who knows, we'll just have to wait and see Spring Break! Not that it matters lol. Just more time for test prep. Double yuck. Cheers!
thanks Chris for reposting all the photos looking good...super work! respectfully Gary L Lake Dillensnyder
It does. I timed it today. From start to glue took two hours for ~42". Of course I was also watching top gear at the same time, so that might have had something to do with it... Today so far has been ballasting, and I spray painted the rest of the track (that is laid). Later today I'll probably start ballasting the other side of the layout, and later on from there I'll still be trying to figure out this grain elevator situation. Another wonderful day of spring break. I think eventually I'm going to end up asking for help on this grain elevator thing. Things just aren't... working out right now >.< Obligatory photo: I know it looks like crap right now but it's a matter of unflattering shadows and a black backdrop. Give it time lol. Back to ballasting *groans*
Not a big fan of ballasting meself. There's no reason why you have to do it all now. I like to ballast after I do the basic ground cover (including static grass) around the tracks so that it looks like the ballast went on top of the earth that was there (which is what happens in real life most times). That way the browns & greens of dirt and ground foam lie under, and the static grass pokes through the ballast (instead of getting smashed on it). Switch it up and try it! (especially with the sidings!)
An interesting thought and of course you're dead right. I know exactly what you're talking about when it comes to the sidings, and that is the effect I had in my mind long term, I just never got that penny to drop about doing it the other way around. Having done it this way for two layouts already, and being fairly satisfied with the results, I hadn't given it any though I guess -_- I think I'm going to keep doing it my way for the front of the town (elevated main and passing siding) but for the back of town, which includes the outside line and all the switching, I'm going to do it in reverse as you have suggested. Like I mentioned, long term thoughts: lots of weeds and dirt etc. Need to pick up a static grass applicator first lol.
Photo Update from last night: And Photo Update from this morning: 3: 2: 1: Houston, we have lift-out: Now I just have to wire it up. Thankfully my crocodile clips showed up yesterday, so all should be good by later today Cheers!
Build your own for $30 and a few hours of work. I built the 12V version because I was too scared to try the 120V Works great. (I built the fly swatter version first but found it's good really for only getting small areas, and not as good with the longer 4mm grasses I like to blend in with the WS 2mm) I got the negative ion generator from Model-Trains-Video for $25 (they import it from Australia I think). But if you're handy with electronics I'd say go for the 120V.
Actually, pursuant to another thread that was floating around these parts I was thinking about picking up one of the smaller grass tech USA spreaders for around $40. Non-homestead electronics and I don't mix well in the slightest unfortunately. Perhaps one day lol. Anywho, moving along Mainline ballasting is pretty much done but for a couple turnouts and I have to say, I'm quite pleased with how the added elevation has worked out. I think once everything is said and done it's all going to look pretty fantastic. Glued together the basic structure of the building materials yard to see how that is going to fit in: And started experimenting with greenery around the bridge piers to help everything blend in well: We'll see where that goes later down the line. No more ballasting for quite a while, save for those two turnouts. Per suggestions (MC) I will be getting other scenery done around the tracks before ballasting again. Till next time...
Totally correct. The "Grasstech" is the $5 flyswatter sold for $40, while the "Grasstech II" is the $30 12V DIY sold as $150. Which means you could build BOTH yourself for 1/4 the price. And the $30 DIY grassinator will last you longer than this layout. I'm totally e-tarded but I was able to build both flyswatter and 12V by following the article. Part of model railroading is pushing yourself out of your comfort zone. Each new layout should challenge you to tackle new techniques, materials, projects, etc. How is this new layout challenging you? (and the lift-out doesn't count)
Nice progress so far... but did I miss something? What happened to the last layout you started? The one with the super-heavy-duty benchwork? Was it ever completed?
Ah yes, that was something that was lost to the other thread. I got tired of it, unhappy with its characteristics, too big, too little room left, etc. So it got introduced to a reciprocating saw. The end lol. As far as getting out of my comfort zone, this time around will be water. Finally. Two layouts so far with rivers, have yet to pour a single drop of water, mainly because it terrifies me. So that is effort #1. No idea what effort #2 is going to be at this point, but as far as the static grass applicator goes, even with the handy dandy article (and it is a good one to be sure) I still feel that is way out of my league at this point, so despite ya'll's encouragement, I will probably cave for a pre-made and throw some money away in the process. Maybe next time for when I need something bigger I'll give it a go. Yesterday's and today's project has been figuring out what to do with the swaths of empty space between the track and the edge of the layout. My first problem is that it's flat, so I'll probably have to do something about that. My second issue is that in the proto world, it would probably be full of trees. Can't do that, so not sure what's going to happen at this point. One thing I did decide on was a nice park for the right hand slab between the big curve into town and the river. And no, the trees aren't stuck down yet lol. Progress so far: I may end up having to carve out more river along these parts. Beyond that, at this point I don't know what else to do :s
Tried out some ground cover for the park today. Not impressed. And it might not show up in the photos but the turf is a blend of three different shades with real soil underneath. Any thoughts on what I could be doing differently here? I'm think along the lines of short to medium length static grass around the edges of everything, a couple more trees and such, but not sure if even then I'd be happy with it all. Maybe some more bushes too? I have planned out that there will be a road along the front edge (not the entire road will make it onto the layout though) leading to a parking lot on the left hand side. Perhaps a hiking trail leading out from the left hand side of the parking lot... Thoughts anyone?
Its too flat. I use a thin coat of Sculptamold over the foam first. Mix it so it is just a bit stiff and use a 1" paintbrush to apply it. It will naturally form uneven ground this way. Then I paint it a brownish color before I add my mix of ground foam and static grass. this is an early picture of my pond area. See how the ground is undulating slightly ? Here is a finished shot with bushes added.
For an area around a park, real dirt is too course, even when finely sifted. Try unsanded grout for smoother "N scale" dirt textures: The brown at the edge of the module is fine-sifted real dirt, while the more travelled "dirt" area in front of the shacks is unsanded grout. (There are a bunch of colors at the hardware store, just get a bunch and mix for various hues and shades). Again, here's real dirt (fine sifted) along the edge at the right and on the hillsides, with unsanded grout and patches of static grass for a more "compacted" /finer dirt look around the buildings. Sanded grout has a texture between unsanded grout and sifted real dirt if you want to layer it on. To use apply grout, use a big spoon to heap some in a sifter (over the container), carefully move the sifter over the area you want it (I lay down the coarser real dirt or sanded grout first), then lightly tap the side of the sifter rim with the spoon. Shaking the sifter or using just a spoon will result in clumps of grout. When smooth powdering is done, mist with 70% alcohol and then GENTLY pipette 50-50 whiteglue/water (quirt too hard and it'll create channels / rivulets). Some will say you only need to mist the grout with water to set it, but when I tried that the grout dried very brittle. I strongly recommend practicing both technique and various color mixes on a piece of scrap foam (They dry usually a slightly darker color than when mixed). Hope this helps.
I agree with what others have mentioned. I have been moving out of my comfort zone with my latest layout trying to keep in mind that very rarely is ground completely level and flat. I do suggest you elevate the park above the tracks a bit and try to "un-flatten" the terrain. I would save totally level surfaces for your picnic area and maybe a sports field, but let the surrounded areas be sloped for drainage, etc. I will be using the tips Mike C and M.C. have mentioned when I get past my track-laying stage. I also plan on going to the old hardware store for some of this magical unsanded grout everyone has been raving about! Lol
