John, are you talking about the Micron Art Archimedean link ground throws??? If so, you'll be sorry. They are a PAIN to put together, look ugly and bind a lot. Plus you have to rub the wheel/gear to make them move. Go electric. Tortoise or Hoffmanns (since you are in Germany) Both allow you to route power.
or you could try memory wire actuation - see a thread on Z Central: http://zcentralstation.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=105&forum=12 Chris
Jeff - Thanks for the advice. I just might go electric on the turnout machines. Chris - Thanks for the Z Central thread. That was pretty cool! John
John, thanks, but I don't like that technique - it only works for dead-ends. I've done my thinking at the weekend. My previous diagrams only work with Märklin or equivalent turnouts, where any necessary frog and point switching is built-in. Here is my diagram for the Wright turnout - it keeps one rail common throughout the layout and has the other split into sections. (There has to be a switch for the frog power, whether you use a manual throw or electric, so a two-gang switch does not complicate the operation.) I shall now draw my version of the lower part of your layout using the second switches to do power routing, then I'll post it.
Jeremy, Thanks! You're the best! Hope you had a great weekend! We did. Got all the cork roadbed laid on my layout and went to four beer gardens / fests! John
We did thanks, but no beer gardens! Here is my version of the lower part of your layout with automatic power routing using a second (and in one case, a third) switch on each turnout. I am now firmly of the opinion you should use Tortoise turnout machines. Firstly because there are such good reports of them all over the Internet. Secondly because they have the two switches you need built-in. Hoffmann was also mentioned but I would reject them: there is only one switch built-in, and I personally have had a bad experience with them. Tortoises need a fair bit of space under the layout - you will have to raise it somehow. And it is best not to solder to the contacts but to use an edge connector - there is a source here (edge connector included if you buy the Tortoises from them): <http://www.parkadehobbies.com/edgeConnector.html> You would need a little control panel with a mimic diagram of the layout and a 2-pole changeover switch at each turnout. And two controllers of course - one for the outer tracks and one for the inner. That's all for now. Jeremy
Jeremy, Thank you! This is making it fun and making me glad that I did not give up on this layout. Any recommendations as to which 2-pole changeover switches I should use? John
There are two sizes: large and small! The large has a body (under the panel) B12 x W13.2 x D12 mm, a 10.5 mm dolly, and needs a 6 mm hole. The small has body B8 x W9 x D7, 9.5 dolly, and 5 mm hole. I have used both, but prefer the small as it makes a neater panel. I buy my components here in Germany from Reichelt: <http://www.reichelt.de/> If you have a German bank account you can register and order online. Reichelt have the best prices I have found. The large switch is order code "MS 500F" and the small "MS 245". Cost 1.65 and 1.50 euro respectively. Jeremy
guys, is it true that Wright turnouts have no break between the frog and closure rails? edit since original posting - it would appear this is the case I have sketched alternative wiring? edit since original posting - looks like this is not applicable to Wright/Marklin turnouts... Chris
Jeremy, Thanks for the info on the Reichelt 2-pole changeover switches. I have a Germany bank account and I'll check out their web site. John
Chris, as far as I understand from the Wright website, your first diagram is correct (same as mine!). Well, here is my diagram of the wiring for the complete layout using automatic power routing. It's pretty complicated. And do you know what I think I would recommend to John, who has said he is not particularly comfortable with electrics, ... go DIGITAL! Really. With DCC, none of these complicated routing circuits are necessary - only the frog power switching that we have discussed before. So, here is my final recommendation, then I shall go quiet (!): use Tortoise switches because they are reliable, make a control panel with a mimic diagram using 2-pole changeover switches to control the Tortoises, use one of the built-in switches on each of the Tortoises to power the frog, and use your DCC throttles to drive the trains. Brilliant! Now I can sleep. Jeremy
John, I take it back about going digital!! I was tired and the routing wiring just seemed too complicated once I had finished it. But in the night I realised it was regular and therefore relatively easy to construct. No, stay away from DCC - then you won't have to fiddle about putting decoders in the locos! Jeremy
Jeremy, Thank you for all your hard work and effort on this. You are a true friend! I will contact you off-line tomorrow night to discuss this. John
