Aug 21, 2017
The only thing to fear is fear itself... and spiders.
Probably should have mentioned that as well but I don't when cleaning yo the floor and other areas.
Dont glue switch tracks to the road bed !!
Another thing I wish I did was plan more. I got excited and made a few things more difficult then they needed to be.
That's a fantastic trick I started using some 15 years ago, ONLY after losing umpteen MT coupler springs into hyperspace and carpet. The straw that broke the came's back was losing fine detail parts from a photo-etched fret into same locations.
I used a cheap squeeze clamp to attach the apron to the table, as mine had a convenient lip underneath. One hint: DON'T get up quickly without undoign the neck strap. It doesn't end well...
I haven't laughed that hard in a while.... Thanks for the lesson in train room pest control...
One thing I learned is to use flexible fine-point applicators for superglue (CA or what have you). The bottle applicator tip is entirely too big and free-flowing for most model RR uses. I used to get these for my adhesives, but still ended up sloppily applying too much. They work, but you still have to be careful. https://www.amazon.com/PH-PandaHall-Micro-Tips-Applicator-Dispensing/dp/B07VVQKHDJ
A better tip is to take a scrap of paper, drip a few drops of CA on it, and dip the part carefully into the glue, then apply directly to the model. I ruined too many projects from my hamfisted glue over-application.
When ballasting with a real rock product (Arizona Rock & Mineral, etc), it helps immensely to MOISTEN (not soak) the ballast after placement with straight isopropyl alcohol from an eyedropper. Then while still moist, use an eyedropper and apply glue/water mix with a few drops of dish soap to break surface tension. You want to soak it but not have the liquid running all over the place. After it's dry, pick the errant ballast particles off the tops of the ties, spikes and rails, then repeat with the glue-water mix. My ballast has been glued this way since 2012, and survived an international move intact.
When doing snow scenes, DON'T use ground foam or any dyed product on the scenery surface before applying "snow". When white scenic materials are applied over it, ground foam scenic materials leach greenish blue dye like Love Canal in a wet year. Your snow after application then takes on a distinctly unrealistic green and blue color only correctable with artist gesso. Simply paint your scenery the base color, weather and color your rocks, then mist with wet water. Sift Hyrocal or other plaster product over, and mist wet water on again. Allow to dry and repeat until desired snow depth is achieved.
The weird color cast on the mountain is not the light.....
When doing snow scenes, "snow" your trees off-layout. I used old pizza boxes with holes stabbed in. Stick the trunk in, and "snow" the tree over until you reach the desired flock. Applying the snow was most effective when holding the pizza box at multiple angles. When dry, drill a tiny hole on the scenery, apply a drop of white glue and plant the tree. Presto, a snow scene!
Here's one thing Learned about Railroads and some 1:1 Rail Line mergers along with other Rail Line Co. tidbits. And being that my Late Father was not just my High School Superintendent , he was also my Science Teacher . He taught me the Different Elements and how to mix different Paint to find the right shade for painting a Railway Locomotive or Car.
Patience is not a virtue.
Patience is the fifth Halliwell sister.
Always remember to put down the soldering iron before reaching to scratch your nose.