Aug 21, 2017
The only thing to fear is fear itself... and spiders.
Probably should have mentioned that as well but I don't when cleaning yo the floor and other areas.
Dont glue switch tracks to the road bed !!
Another thing I wish I did was plan more. I got excited and made a few things more difficult then they needed to be.
That's a fantastic trick I started using some 15 years ago, ONLY after losing umpteen MT coupler springs into hyperspace and carpet. The straw that broke the came's back was losing fine detail parts from a photo-etched fret into same locations.
I used a cheap squeeze clamp to attach the apron to the table, as mine had a convenient lip underneath. One hint: DON'T get up quickly without undoign the neck strap. It doesn't end well...
I haven't laughed that hard in a while.... Thanks for the lesson in train room pest control...
One thing I learned is to use flexible fine-point applicators for superglue (CA or what have you). The bottle applicator tip is entirely too big and free-flowing for most model RR uses. I used to get these for my adhesives, but still ended up sloppily applying too much. They work, but you still have to be careful. https://www.amazon.com/PH-PandaHall-Micro-Tips-Applicator-Dispensing/dp/B07VVQKHDJ
A better tip is to take a scrap of paper, drip a few drops of CA on it, and dip the part carefully into the glue, then apply directly to the model. I ruined too many projects from my hamfisted glue over-application.
When ballasting with a real rock product (Arizona Rock & Mineral, etc), it helps immensely to MOISTEN (not soak) the ballast after placement with straight isopropyl alcohol from an eyedropper. Then while still moist, use an eyedropper and apply glue/water mix with a few drops of dish soap to break surface tension. You want to soak it but not have the liquid running all over the place. After it's dry, pick the errant ballast particles off the tops of the ties, spikes and rails, then repeat with the glue-water mix. My ballast has been glued this way since 2012, and survived an international move intact.
When doing snow scenes, DON'T use ground foam or any dyed product on the scenery surface before applying "snow". When white scenic materials are applied over it, ground foam scenic materials leach greenish blue dye like Love Canal in a wet year. Your snow after application then takes on a distinctly unrealistic green and blue color only correctable with artist gesso. Simply paint your scenery the base color, weather and color your rocks, then mist with wet water. Sift Hyrocal or other plaster product over, and mist wet water on again. Allow to dry and repeat until desired snow depth is achieved.
The weird color cast on the mountain is not the light.....
When doing snow scenes, "snow" your trees off-layout. I used old pizza boxes with holes stabbed in. Stick the trunk in, and "snow" the tree over until you reach the desired flock. Applying the snow was most effective when holding the pizza box at multiple angles. When dry, drill a tiny hole on the scenery, apply a drop of white glue and plant the tree. Presto, a snow scene!
Here's one thing Learned about Railroads and some 1:1 Rail Line mergers along with other Rail Line Co. tidbits. And being that my Late Father was not just my High School Superintendent , he was also my Science Teacher . He taught me the Different Elements and how to mix different Paint to find the right shade for painting a Railway Locomotive or Car.
Patience is not a virtue.
Patience is the fifth Halliwell sister.
Always remember to put down the soldering iron before reaching to scratch your nose.
When planning your layout make sure you leave access to power / the wall.
Don't ask me how I know.
And no, I won't tell you why I cut holes in the back of the cabinets supporting my layout.
'Steve, why are you pulling all of that junk out of the cabinet'?
'Darling, would you pass me the keyhole saw, please'.
Keep it Simple - You can add to / elaborate / enhance it later.
Get trains running in at least one part of the layout.
Get scenery up in at least one part of the layout.
Mine don't have backs. Pull the drawers out and have access behind.
Trains derail on dried glue blobs on the rail.
er, I mean,
Clean your track...ideally *before* you use it.
Don't ask me how I know.
Murphy Was an Optimist!
Repainting when you have track down is a pain-t.
Er, I mean
Kata track does not contrast very well with dark tan.
The cable you need to connect your phone, (with all the photos on it), to the computer has cat teeth marks in it and is out of stock at the nearby stores.
A good P.A. can easily fit 12 stitches in the tip of your ring finger. Under the right circumstance a miter saw can and will kick back.
I was making a wood block with a series of ⅜" holes in it using a paddle bit. It was a chunk of 2x4 backed it with a piece of plywood. Both held in my left hand.
I thought I would feel the difference between the 2x4 and plywood. The drill's battery was dying so I really was pushing on it.
Suddenly the bit came through the plywood and into my palm just above the first knuckles of my ring and pinky. The skin on the back of my hand stretched way out on the point of the spade bit so there was no exit wound.
Fortunately the battery quit just as the bit broke through the wood. I was quite lucky I didn't hit any bones or ligaments but I could see some.
There was surprisingly little pain until the hydrogen peroxide hit.
In the words of Forrest Gump;
STUPID IS AS STUPID DOES!
Your lucky. I had one of those bits pushed through just above the wrist. I can still show the 1 1/4" scare on the inside but not were the point came out on the back of my wrist. It wasn't running in the 1/2" drill though.
Yes! It stings and foams a bit.
My Mom just laughed.
Yowzah, you guys and your drill bits....
Speaking of miter saws, I was carefully (in my own estimation) cutting a small piece (3" long, 1" wide and 3/4" thick--too short to be supported by both ends of the fence) of wood on my miter saw, and the blade grabbed the work, ripped it out of my hand, and chucked it at like Mach 3.5 to the wall behind the saw where it ricocheted across the garage. Close call...
My Radial Arm saw could do the same.
My cell phone camera augments the colors to the extent that light tan come across yellow.
That kind of stuff looked like Warp 1 to me......
Recently I've started watching YouTube 'N Scale Model Railroads'.
No matter how clever or original a thought I have had someone has already done it. Argh!