I will be using Atlas turnouts for my first layout and there are a few terms i'm not sure about. 1. What part is the "Frog" 2. Difference in use of plastic frogs "cannot be powered" vs metal "can be powered" 3. Why some turnouts are called "snap-switch" (Atlas name) 4. A standard turnout is for use with 18" radius but what are #3, #4, #6, #8 equal to? If anything (22", 24" radius?) 5. Recommended book(s) that can answer other questions like these that would include DCC control? 6. Alright, one other question, Can turnouts be operated with DCC? Sorry for asking questions that seem simple, but all i ever had was a 48" x 60" double oval that my father built 30 years ago. The spirit for this hobby has been rekindled a few months ago & i have room for a 12' x 5' layout.
Welcome. Don't be ashamed of asking simple questions - everyone starts somewhere and everyone was new once. Allan Gartner has written a very useful website called Wiring For DCC, which has a couple of pages on turnouts. In particular he has diagrams which name the parts of the turnout. (warning, verbosity!) 1. The "frog" is the V shape between the two legs of the turnout. A train entering a turnout from the single-track end passes over the "point" / point blades, one wheel stays on a "stock" (outside) rail by missing the point blades and the other runs up a blade along the "closure" rail, and hits the frog. "guard" or "check" rails around the frog stop the wheel from actually hitting the frog, as that would probably cause a derailment! With one wheel still on the stock rail, and the other now past the frog on a frog rail, the train leaves the turnout. 2. The frog is fun because it's the location where the Red and Blue rails would normally touch. A train taking the diverging path believes the frog is the "blue" rail, but a train taking the straight path believes the frog is the "red" rail. To prevent this causing a short and shutting down everything, there are usually two approaches: a) Plastic frog, with the rails connected electrically under the turnout b) Metal frog, which has to switch polarity when the point is thrown, to prevent shorts. Both methods have pros and cons; the biggest problem with insulated frogs is there is no power pickup for the length of the frog - a real problem for small steam engines (0-4-0 or 0-6-0), but not so bad for modern diesel models. 3. As a complete guess, I can think of two options: Either "Snap" switch probably refers to the solenoid based remote operation. Applying a short pulse of power to one end of the solenoid throws the switch with a "snap". Or, the other option is the switch "fits" into Atlas's sectional geometry; which all clips together "like a snap"; as opposed to a Custom Switch used with Flex Track and Advanced Modellers and stuff. 4. A numbered point is different from a "toy set" point. The latter curves the diverging rail the whole time, thus the point can be said to "replace" a curved piece of track. A numbered point, like a real point, only curves for a short way and then both departure tracks are actually straight. The number refers to how quickly the diverging rail separates from the straight - a "number 4" point has moved one (unit) sideways for four (units) along the point - 1 inch to 4 inches; 1 metre to 4 metres; etc. It can't be replaced with a simple curve, but it's more prototypical. The NMRA has a page on numbered switches here, which mentions details such as the angle of the frog and all the other geometry of a switch/turnout/point. The "number" and frog angle actually remain the same regardless of scale; but lengths and other dimensions obviously vary. 5. Pass. Someone else can probably recommend something. 6. Yes, turnouts can work with DCC. Some work better than others. Allan's Site goes into details and is worth a read. phew, that's a lot of typing. I hope it was helpful
Try the Atlas HO King-Size Layout Book which is available at hobby shops, on-line retailers, and even at craft stores such as Hobby Lobby - and if you have a Hobby Lobby store near you, watch the local paper for the 40% coupons they run from time to time. There is a more detailed info from Atlas on their website: Atlas Model Railroad Co. Model Railroader has the book Easy Model Railroad Wiring.
Duster408 I'm always looking for the definitions and the words. :angel: Some helpful links: Turnout_Tips http://www.wiringfordcc.com/ http://home.comcast.net/~daletherail/definitions/definitionsTurnout.html Wolfgang
Switches, frogs and points. Nice work ATSF Admirer! With regards to books written on "Switches" (as per American Railroad Lingo) a visit to the Kalmbach website would be helpful. Although there are those who taut the books are old and out of date ...nonsense, they are as applicable today, as the day they were written. Atlas has all kinds of books on track laying, various layout designs, how to's and etc. You will find books written on DCC, and how it can be best used for controlling trains and switches. A visit to your LHS (local hobby shop) will be beneficial in that they will redirect you to various books available and still in print. I need to add this here. On Trainboard there are a number of IHS (Internet Hobby Shops) that serve here as sponsors. A visit to any of their websites will be beneficial. I do hope this helps.
You can also check your local library for model railroad books. (Dewey Decimal# 625.19). That's what I've done. Our county library system has dozens of them.
Duster: Snap Switches "snap" their points firmly against the outside rails. Other Atlas turnouts (the non-Snap versions), have a tendency to be accidently left partially thrown (points end up moving part way to the thrown position to take the diverging route instead of all the way, so trains entering the turnout derail. The snap feature has a spring mechanism of some sort inside the switch machine that holds the points to the outside rails in either the thrown or closed position, exactly like the spring clip holds Peco points firmly against the rails on Peco turnouts. As a result, the Atlas Manual Snap Switch Turnouts are much more reliable than the manual non-snap versions...although probably no more reliable than electrified turnouts and any turnouts using correctly installed ground throws to move the points one way or the other. Atlas N-Scale Code 80 Turnouts #2750 and #2751 have a 15 degree arc and a 19 inch radius curve. This yields a #4 turnout. There are different part numbers for these same turnouts with an attached manual switch machine and for the same turnouts with attached electrical switch machines. The 2750 and 2751 usually come packaged with a 15 degree arc 19" radius curved sectional track piece that exactly matches the turnout.
I checked the local library, MOTHERLOAD! I checked out six books, all from Model Railroad Magazine Books, & two DVD's. Look out, now i'm dangerous because i know everthing. Thanks!
This info has been enlightening for me. I knew some of it coming in, but not about switch type numbers. I only knew that Kato has just two switch types in N Scale, #4: 15 deg. 19" radius, and #6: 15 deg. 28.25" radius. I've often wished for a tighter radius turnout, but figured that it must be beyond engineering limitations, as the tightest HO turnout they make has a 19.25" radius.
