Update on Sweethome Alabama progress

Hello guys,

Having spent too much time weathering freight cars recently, I shamed myself into putting some time into getting the new layout up and running.

My first task was to build a short 15inch long board to allow a loco with 2 coupled cars to pass beyond the reverse crossover. It also provided sufficient space to curve the tracks towards the back of the layout enabling me to site the view-blocking bridge to fit on the layout without overhanging the front.




The track has been laid onto Woodland Scenics foam roadbed and wood pieces were cut to shape to fit where the track crosses the baseboard joints. Brass screws were fixed below the track and the rails soldered in place before cutting with a disc. Power is routed to the board via a 6-pin DIN plug jumper cable




This makes the overall scenic portion of the layout 11ft x 1ft 9in, with a further 4ft 6in fiddle yard for the other end. There is also scope to add a second fiddle yard beyond the bridge


The next task was to lay a new track into the fiddle yard to represent a wood/lumber yard - essential if I am modelling NW Alabama. The track exits the layout through a hole in the backscene and the hole will eventually be hidden by trees.




The main line to the fiddle yard is accessed via a track which runs behind the backscene.




More to follow....

Jon

 

Now that the new board is in place, I could concentrate on the layout lighting.

I extended the lighting fascia at the front of the layout, supported by 4 removable brackets fitted behind the backscene. Remember, everything has to be dismantled so the layout will fit in the boot(trunk) of the family runaround.

I have seen many lighting effects on layouts at shows, ranging from nothing at all, through the positioning of the odd spot-lamp (creating the illusion of a POW camp in WWII) to daylight fluorescent tubes (as used on Sweethome Chicago).

The nicest effect I saw had warm fluorescent lighting illuminating the back of the layout and cool/daylight bulbs at the front, so I thought I'd give it a try with what I had lying about the cellar.

Here's the completed layout lighting rig - it dismantles completely in under 15 minutes. I tried it during half time during one of the World Cup footie matches.








To get an idea of the coverage and overall effect of the mixed lighting tones, I switched off the room lights, one of which is directly above the layout. Here is an idea of the effect, although I do not intend to operate this way very often.





Jon

 

Having had a chance to operate some trains on the layout, I wasn't happy with the placement of some of the sidings. I removed a tunout which made the layout look too busy and realigned all the siding tracks. I have ended up with 2 'Inglenooks' (micro layout parlance) placed end to end, with a passing siding separating them.

This allows for an upper and lower yard which can be worked individually by 2 operators or by one operator working both yards.

Upper Yard







Lower yard




The lower yard includes the track through the backscene to the lumber yard in the fiddle yard.





Next up is the central bridge area.


Jon

 

The bridge in the centre of the layout serves 2 main purposes.

Firstly, it acts as a scenic block to separate the upper and lower yards and frames each of the 2 main scenes on the layout.

Secondly it has been placed where the operatorwill sit during shows. There's little or no point in modelling an area that will only be obscured by the operator during a show.

thebridge top was modelled from Rix/Pike Stuff parts but the abutments and pillars were scratchbuilt from card and plastic components. The stonework was added using Wills plastic sheets, tidied up at the corners with a scribing tool.










Jon

 

To bring things up to date, I have fitted the toggle switches to the layout front, just under the central bridge.

To save on making jumper cables or control panels, I have only fitted the switches that operate the turnouts for each of the 2 main boards - ie board 1 - the Lower yard - has 3 turnouts and 3 toggle switches, while the board containing the lower yard has 6 of each.

Each toggle switch is linked to an NCE Switch-it accessory decoder, which is also linked to a Tortoise turnout motor.

I have recessed the banks of toggle switches so that they can be covered up so the layout can be safely transported without damage to the switches.





The socket for the ProCab handheld has also been recessed.




My next job will be to add a plywood fascia board to the front of the layout and cut it to the rough shape of the foreground scenery.

Jon

 

Great progress, Jon. I'm looking for more. :angel:

I've also started a new module, 3,2m long, narrow gauge. Just now I'm building turnouts. :angel:

Wolfgang

 

very nice looking work. LIke the progress that you have made.

 

Thanks guys

Keeping up the momentum, I sprated the track and sleepers/rail ties with a grimy brown colour. I will add the rusty rail colour after all the ballasting has been done.

I had to take off the backscenes to access the rear of the track easily.








I use the 86ft excess height boxcar as my test car - if that goes through, anything will.

Jon

 

After giving the paint a few hours to dry, I started to lay some ballast.

I tried to match the ballast to the colour that Southern used off the main line in Alabama, so I mixed some WS light grey medium granite chippings, with some medium light brown and a touch of slate grey chippings.

I've tried the granulated cork ballast in the past and gave it up as a bad loss - it moves too easily when the glue is added.

I apply the ballast with a teaspoon for control, move it into place with my finger and a small stithe paint brush, then tidy it up using a small screwdriver. It's slow but worth doing it right in the long run.






I started the ballasting over the join between the 2 baseboards to get the hardest part out of the way first. It also meant I could fix and ballast around the bridge support early on.





The test car is used to ensure I have the necessary clearances before the glue dries





The ballast is currently drying out after adding WS white glue with an eye-dropper - the most accurate way of applying the glue and doesnt make the ballast move. I had already sprayed the area with isopropyl alcohol to wet the ballast.

Having a small 11ft layout means that the ballasting can be finished in a couple of days, worth remembering when you're planning a vast, sceniced empire.

Jon

 

nice work on the ballast looks really nice. Looks like that 86ft box is about to wipe out the bridge, fell sorry for the guy riding on the side ladder.

 

I'll have to put up a sign warning about that - don't want any HO blood splattered all over my newly-painted bridge support.

Jon

 

I've continued with the ballasting and almost finished the main running lines before I ran out of the light grey ballast. I am now wondering how to show the difference in ballast colour between the branch line, the runround loop/siding and the 2 yard ladders.

I have already spotted a gaff in that the main running line is not actually a 'main line' but a branch line, and as such probably wouldn't have the sloped ballast sides - no wonder I ran out. D'oh!








An old view of the works train




I'll probably paint the sky while I'm waiting for the new ballast to arrive

Jon

 

"I am now wondering how to show the difference in ballast colour between the branch line, the runround loop/siding and the 2 yard ladders."

Jon what about staining it a darker color with a nice wash or weathering powders (ie Joe Fugate style)?
ratled

 

Good idea, I like it. If I mess up with powders, I could always vacuum it off again.


Jon

 

While I'm waiting for the ballast to arrive in the post, I thought I'd make a start on the scenic fascia boards while watching the Germany-Ghana game at the World Cup.

I found a sheet of wood in the back lane a couple of weeks ago, after someone had thrown out an old wardrobe - a nice piece of 1/4 in plywood - waste not, want not.

I cut out the basic shape with a Stanley knife and after several new blades, had a rough approximation of the final contours. After cutting out the slots for the recessed switches, I attached the fascia board and undercoated it.










I'll do the next scenic contour board tomorrow night.


Congratulations to the England and US footie teams at the World Cup.

Jon

 

I finished off the contour/fascia boards this evening while watching Japan beat Denmark on the telly. I've also started to contour the board tops (subroad bed) to fit in with the falling scenery.

Unfortunately this also means I will have to add some longitudinal bracing to prevent sagging between the cross braces.

The longest part of the job was cutting out the slots for the recessed switches and the Pro Cab socket.












Jon

 

The cutaway scenery will also create some interesting photographic angles - just as well I'm modelling the brake gear.






Tomorrow evening, I'll add the bracing and maybe make a start on filling in those big holes.

 

Very nice Jon.You make me want to get back to my layout now.