I am trying to salvage atlas flex track and switches off of an old layout. The track was laid about six months ago and I hope to also use some of the corkwood. Any advice?
You didn't say what scale, so I'll ASSume HO. I expect it all depends on how you fastened the track and cork down. I have Atlas track that I have had down and up and down several times over 20 years. The track has never proven to be a problem. I tack it in place and then ballast. It comes up easy. If you used something like Liquid Nails, you may destroy the track getting it up. On cork I use white glue on the bottom and an occasional tack (spike, track nail, etc.) to hold it in place while it dries. After umpteen years, the cork dries out and breaks when you try to salvage it, but I have reused cork with no problem. Again, all bets are off if you have used a contact cement type of product. Roger
I have tried to salvage old brass track that was glued with contact cement. Dad and I went all the way up to a putty knife and hammer! Then tried mom's hair drier. The cheap plastic ties shrunk up. We had wierdest looking track! It looked like the the old sidings in the slums. I have lots of rails now, but not track. Dad heated Linseed Oil and painted it on one side of his cork auto caskets to keep them soft. I did that on my roadbed. works like a champ. Top only, let dry for two weeks. The oil soaks down through, so put paper under it. ------------------ Watash
Tigerman, do not use an open flame to heat, linseed will burn. My father worked at Peerless Bearing Co. in Wichita, Kansas, that made Babbit and bronze bearings for cars, trucks, steam engines, tractors, and other machinery like Pumps, compressors, lathes, etc. He was a certified scraper fitter. He taught me to do it too. No such thing today. Part of his job was to take the bearings out, fix them, then re-assemble it. The same gasket was often used, unless it was shellacked in place; in which case a new one was made. There were many kinds of gaskets, but those that were cork, would be compressed for so long, they had "taken a set", dried out and had to be "refreashed". The New cork stock that had been stored, would also dry out and get brittle. You have to be careful heating linseed oil. It can be heated so hot it will burn wood before it boils. Do not use it in the house on the kitchen stove. Use a hot plate on low, outside, and provide a flat place to lay the cork pieces. Use a cotton cloth swab, or "daub", or a pig bristle paint brush that you can throw away. Do not let one drop of this hot oil touch your skin! Paint a light coat of the hot (210 to 250 degrees), oil only on the top of each piece of cork. It really penetrates, so the thinner the coat, the better. Let the cork lay as is for two days, then check to see if there are any wet surfaces on the top. Dab them up, do not wipe. At this point you may wish to place a cotton "T" shirt on top of any curled or bent up pieces. Lay a flat board on the T shirt to flatten the cork. Leave it alone for two weeks. The oil will penetrate about 1/4 inch each week in the summer, two weeks in temperatures down to 40F. Below that, wait til warm weather. Do not allow any hot oil to drop onto wet (with water) cork, it will explode from steam. This oil treatment was used on WWI rifle stocks (walnut) to water proof them, then each was rubbed briskly to polish. Paint and varnish will stick, since most oil based paint has linseed oil in it, but water based paints and glues may not stick. I don't know about the new Liquid Nails or synthetic contact cements. All this does is soften ground cork stock. Try a small amount until you determine if it will meet your needs. The oil will migrate onto any surface under it, so put plenty of papers down, and don't do this on the dining room table! Use common sense! Is it worth it? ------------------ Watash
Great tips Watash, I have recycled track and cork but never tried this softening routine which I am sure helps. All old track and cork I had is now in use in my current layout.. From here on in it is just new stuff. The old stuff works well but I had to be extra sure of my track laying to get smooth operation. ------------------ Robin Maberly and Tayside
Linseed approach worked pretty well. Better results on the cork that was approx.1 year old. The older roadbed had a tendency to fray and crumble. I still would recommend the process.
A word of caution when using Linseed Oil. If you use rags (Cloth or Paper towel) to apply or clean up linseed oil, DO NOT dispose in an open trash container, as there is a very good possibility that they will catch fire through "Spontainious Cumbustion". Having spent 21 years in the navy, working with all kinds of paints and preservatives, I speak from experiance and having had to fight 2 such fires at sea. We used to dispose of the rags by either burning or soaking in a bucket of water (not sure what they did with them afterwards) Hope this helps. Happy Modelling. Cheers, Terry
Terry's right! I thought I had put that in my post. Sorry. I think I remember seeing them soak rags in oil, old paint, gun grease, then wring them out and throw them into the boiler to start up a fire. The remaining oil helped. The water just dissapated heat so they could keep the rags safely til needed. Even old Blitz clothes were burned. I use mine to polish the brass rail, it will pass Marine inspection! ------------------ Watash
Watash, why didn't you run for President. You are a wealth of good, solid, usable common sense and information. You never cease to amaze me! ------------------ When in doubt, empty your magazine. Member #33
Sometimes I can't even stand myself. Why when I was just a slip of a boy, I was so bright, my mom called me son! Dad called me some other things, but I did look at a lot of funny papers. Someday I hope to learn to read them, then I kin git a P H & D in smart, and B S in learn, from that grand old Mexican University, P on U. Thanx tho. ------------------ Watash
I've salvaged a lot of track and turnouts, and only buy new if needed. As far as cork goes, it may go just one more layout before it goes into the trash. The exception to my rule was when I converted from code 100 to code 83- I did this over a period of time. The best of the code 100 track and turnouts are going to my local model RR club. Waste not, want not.......makes for a cheaper hobby ------------------ Southeast....Southwest.. Ship IT on the Frisco! Bob T. http://hometown.aol.com/slsf1630/myhomepage/profile.html
