I just wired up 6 remote switches on a part of my layout, and the motors burned up with in second of being connected. I did this by connecting the #56 switch control boxes with the little bus bars they include with them. The motors on 2 melted and the wires burned up too. At first I though that it was my fault and I had something laying on the switch to make it energize the turnout... but I found with my voltmeter that 2 of the 6 switch control boxes were allowing 2 volts to get to the turnout motors all the time. So be warned, and check yours before you install them with a voltmeter. I replaced the control switches and everything is now normal. I have contacted Atlas about this to see what they might say. Art
Got a question for you Art. Were the switches brand new, or have the control boxes been laying around a while. If so, they may have been crushed so to permanently open the circuit. Also, this is the reason I use Stall Motor machines (ie Tortoise), although they are a little more expensive. 25mA when stalled, 3mA running. It uses LESS current when you throw it! Therefore no need to worry about constantly closed contacts (except in a mechanical sense).
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Harron: Got a question for you Art. Were the switches brand new, or have the control boxes been laying around a while. If so, they may have been crushed so to permanently open the circuit. Also, this is the reason I use Stall Motor machines (ie Tortoise), although they are a little more expensive. 25mA when stalled, 3mA running. It uses LESS current when you throw it! Therefore no need to worry about constantly closed contacts (except in a mechanical sense).<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> The switches were brand new, and went from the hobby shop to the layout. I installed then with in a few days, and if I can believe the owner of the hobby shop he had only got them in about a week before the time I bought them. Art
If these are the twin-coil type of switch machines, I would definitely use a capacitor-discharge unit. The only safe way to operate this type of motor. All mine are this type, and I have had no problems.
Still could've bee crushed in packing, depending on what they were packed with. I've never had a problem with snap-switches when I used to use them. Alan's suggestion is worth a try. I use capacitors with the Tortoise machines, otherwise you have to push and hold the button until the throw is complete.
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Alan: If these are the twin-coil type of switch machines, I would definitely use a capacitor-discharge unit. The only safe way to operate this type of motor. All mine are this type, and I have had no problems.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> They were the twin motor type and I never had a problem before but the switch was leaking voltage through. I haven't taken the switch apart as I am waiting to hear from Atlas. Art
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Harron: Still could've bee crushed in packing, depending on what they were packed with. I've never had a problem with snap-switches when I used to use them. Alan's suggestion is worth a try. I use capacitors with the Tortoise machines, otherwise you have to push and hold the button until the throw is complete.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> You could be right, but it happened to more than one. I see no damage to the switch, but it sure shows with a voltmeter. From now on I will go with a capacitor unit as I know how to make them, and will still test all of them with my voltmeter. Art
I just heard from Atlas and they are going to make good on everything. So I guess in the long run I'm ok. Art
