1. oldscout

    oldscout TrainBoard Member

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    This weekend I tryed Magic Water, I first did as the bottle suggested and painted the area where the river will be with the mixture. It suggested to do that to seal the area. I let it set for 24 hour and tried to pour the first layer.This layer soaked into the surrounding scenery. Locally I can not get more Magic Water has anyone tried to use Realistic Water over Magic Water. I can get it here locally but at only one LHS.
     
  2. MichaelWinicki

    MichaelWinicki TrainBoard Member

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    I don't see any problem using Realistic Water over Magic Water.

    The only thing I'd consider is that Realistic Water seems to have a more hit & miss reputation from the water making-related threads that I read on the various forums prior to me ultimately selecting Magic Water for my water projects.

    I couldn't be more happy with Magic Water. Easy to use. Great results.

    You'll probably have your layout for a long time, what's a few days waiting for another supply of Magic Water?
     
  3. MC Fujiwara

    MC Fujiwara TrainBoard Member

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    I found that if I'm off by a little with the ratio of the two bottles then sometimes it takes 3-4 days for the Magic Water to cure, in addition to wicking everywhere.
    When the ratio is right on (or even favoring bottle A a little), it sets up in a day and stays put.
    The room temp needs to me mild: more extreme temps affect curing.

    Magic Water really is a great product: I'd wait & use that.
    Take the time while ordering to place logs & under-the-surface vegetation on.
     
  4. oldscout

    oldscout TrainBoard Member

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    Thanks I ordered another bottle of Magic Water this morning. I hope that this will get me water. I think the only problem with Magic water is how much will I need and the cost. $15.00 plus shipping for a 6 oz bottle. My little 2" by 38" creek will have cost $40.00. What I did see, before it soaked into the scernery and disappeared, it looked like water. I like everybody else do not have lots of money for modeling and will look for another idea when I need to pour the much larger river scene.
     
  5. MC Fujiwara

    MC Fujiwara TrainBoard Member

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    One trick is to put the river bed stuff in, then place a piece of clear plastic on top, then brush a thin layer of tinted Magic Water over that, or skip the MW and just start stippling the Gloss Modge Podge on top for the moving water effect. That way you get the depth without filling it with MW.
     
  6. Fotheringill

    Fotheringill Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Have you priced out Famowood or something similar at Home Depot or Lowe's? It is cheaper and is a product used for a clear finish for bar tables, etc..

    Modge Podge will also work and is cheaper than all of the above.

    On a leakage issue- Make sure you tape anything that remotely looks leaky. Turn off the lights in the room, crawl underneath with a flashlight and have a companion standing up looking for light coming through. Retape if required. As to the surrounding scenery, broadly lay on some clear sealing such as varnish or shellac or a coat of paint to cover all raw wood and plaster, then color as desired and then apply the water.
     
  7. Hytec

    Hytec TrainBoard Member

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    Sculptamold works great for sealing rivers and ponds. I cut a trench or hollow in the 3/4" foam top layer, then slope and seal the bottom and sides with Sculptamold to form a river or pond. Sculptamold seals all cracks in the hollowed area very well, I've never had a leak (knock on wood). The bottom and sides are painted for shading before pouring.

    These are examples of that technique.

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    [​IMG]
     

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