What weathering technique do you use, and what technique would you recomend?? I use chalk, and some times I use an airbrush and use paint to get a nice effect. And, sometimes I use both I really like how chalk can get a great rust effect in my opion, and I am even happier since I ran acrss a "pallet" of RR rust, and other RR colours package. Today I did about 10 cars, all chalk, but was happy with the results. I think tomorrow I will use the airbrush and do some passenger eqipment. I like the "Streak" look that an airbrush can produce, and chalk can't do as well. If I had to recomend just one technique I would say chalk, as it is easy, works well, and even better if you do it right. I hear alot of people saying chalk isn't the best way to go-but I would have to disagree. There may be better ways to go-but it works great. Also, I would have to say, get a GOOD SEALANT!! Happy Railroading!! Dane N. ------------------ BC Rail King TAMR2860@Canada.com for TAMR info. BCRailKing@Canada.com
I have been doing some weathering using acrylic paints (like tole painters use). I like to use them with water to make a "wash." I have been using "iron oxide" in a wash to get a rusted effect. Then I follow that with an wash of black to give it a grimy look. After I get the desired effect, I spray the car with Tester's Dullcoat to keep it from rubbing off in handling. By increasing the paint/water ratio the paint becomes more opaque to give a heavy weathered look. Also the wash gets the grime to hang in the places that water would collect just like on the prototype. The wash of paint and water will puddle, and gravity will get the paint to collect where it would naturally. Just leave it to dry and, then, apply the dullcoat. A wash of a white or light gray will also give a streaked look if brushed over the top and allowed to run down the sides of the car. I have used this on cement hoppers with a decent end result. I'm sure there are other techniques that can be used by the creative.... ------------------ Rett
I think you guys have covered all my methods I like to do general weathering with the airbrush, then 'spot weathering' with chalks, sealed with dullcote. I have almost all of my N scale models to do - but have been practicing on my friend's locomotives Weathering really adds a lot of realism to a model. I try to give varying degrees of weathering, and like to work from photographs to get a prototypical look. ------------------ Alan The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.ac-models.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery Alan's European Gallery Alan's British Steam Gallery
I have a weathering page on my website, Gats did a workshop on weathering and we documented it on my website. The page shows how to weather a locomotive using chalk ------------------ http://members.optusnet.com.au/~pcassar/index
I tend to use all of the techniques listed, depending on the project. I also use heavily watered down India ink/alcohol to weather wood. It highlights the grain and gives that grayed weathered look. I do rely heavily on chalks, but also use watered down toll paint. Dry brushing with other types of paint is of course the old tried and true method and this also works well. I have not tried weathering by airbrush, but mainly because I never have a project that is large enough to warrant hooking up the whole rig, painting and then cleaning the whole rig. Happy Modeling, John To see my layout go to: http//www.jstrainstation.homestead.com Hope you will visit!!
To join the chorus, I have used most of the above methods, except the toll paints. I have used watercolour cakes (as found in kids watercolour sets) in the past, which I imagine is a dry version of watercolour paints. Chalk currently is my choice for overall weathering, with other method to highlight certain aspects that the chalks can't quite do, like heavy rusting of boxcar roof panel for example. I feel a light airbrushing of undercarriages is the best for recreating 'sprayed' weathering from wet weather usage. John does make a good point about setting up for airbrushing and Alan's suggestion for working from photos is very important. Gary. ------------------ Gary A. Rose The Unofficial TC&W page N to the Nth degree!
I'm glad you guys are discussing this topic. Is it just me, or do most modelers shy away from weathering.Especially on those brand new locomotives. The last few shows I've been to,hardly any of the rollingstock had been weathered on most of the layouts. I think weathering was the first thing I did when I got started in this hobby. I don't own an airbrush,instead I use a product called rust and weather kit. It comes with four different colors in powder form. It works fantastic for me.
You are right, Thomas. To start weathering a brand new Kato, or whatever takes a bit of courage But once done, it adds so much realism, that it is almost mandatory do do 'em all. Even new locomotives pick up a lot of grime very quickly. The trick is to vary the amount of weathering, so show newish or old and weary items of stock, with all the stages in between. ------------------ Alan The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.ac-models.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery Alan's European Gallery Alan's British Steam Gallery
I do have one problem with the dull coat I use, mit leaves some yucky little spots, even when spraying from really far away. Is there a brand u could recomend so I will not have this problem? Thanks for any help! Dane N. ------------------ BC Rail King TAMR2860@Canada.com for TAMR info. BCRailKing@Canada.com
Dane, if it is Testors Dullcote you are using, buy it by the bottle and apply with your airbrsuh. It will cover much better, and you can mix it with Glosscote to vary the sheen to give a satin finish. I am assuming here you are applying by can - I, too, have found applied for the can gives mixed results with what you say being the primary problem. A heavy coat doesn't seem to affect the end product, though, as it wicks off well leaving a thin coat. Gary. ------------------ Gary A. Rose The Unofficial TC&W page N to the Nth degree!
John, Visited your site and the layout looks great. Welcome to trainboard forum Here are a couple of my locomotives weathered by Gats using chalk ------------------ http://members.optusnet.com.au/~pcassar/index Colonel, your addresses look fine, you might want E-8 to see if he can help get these posted here. Brent [This message has been edited by Colonel (edited 24 June 2000).] [This message has been edited by Maxwell Plant (edited 27 July 2000).]
Gats, do you do ALL the colonel's modelling needs? ------------------ Alan The perfect combination - BNSF and N Scale! www.ac-models.com Andersley Western Railroad Alan's American Gallery Alan's European Gallery Alan's British Steam Gallery
I am sure we would all like a close neighbour like Gats to help us with our weathering needs needs. Thanks to the Colonel for showing Gats at work on his web site ------------------ Robin Maberly and Tayside [This message has been edited by Robin Matthysen (edited 24 June 2000).]
You guys pretty well cover the methods I use. In addition, after I lay the track (Atlas code 83) on my layout, I paint the sides of the rail with Floquil Rail Brown, and dry-brush the ties with Floquil Lark Dark Gray. After ballast and ground foam has been added, the effect is that of down-at-the-heels trackage that you run slowly over. Just remember to clean the rail heads off after painting the rails, or you WILL be running slowly, if at all ------------------ Ship IT on the Frisco! Bob T.
For buildings, I use a white wash for brick mortar, followed up with wash of grimy black for aging... on locos and rolling stock I strictly use a "dry brush" method, I paint my trucks, fuel tanks etc. grimy black, then drybrush rust, fuel spills, etc..., check out my "locomitive roster" to see results (in my newberg branch pages) Here is my question... when I do the wash of grimy black, (or any color for that matter) it puddles up, when it dries, it has definite lines around where it was puddled, I use water and polly scale, what am I doing wrong? ------------------ espee2 Home: www.tunnel13.com layout: SP's Newberg Branch in N scale
I have to admit is is great having a fellow modeller for advice and help. I'm currently negotiating with Gats to assemble some certain spine cars kits . I'll keep you informed on that ut might make a good page for my website. ------------------ http://members.optusnet.com.au/~pcassar/index
<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Alan: Gats, do you do ALL the colonel's modelling needs? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> umm... according to him, it appears so! Robin, how far are you from Smiths Falls? I might be able to fit you into the schedule for September 2001! ------------------ Gary A. Rose The Unofficial TC&W page N to the Nth degree!
Hi Gary. Smith Falls is about a five to six hour drive from Georgetown. Let me know as to your schedule when you come this way. ------------------ Robin Maberly and Tayside
Sounding like a broken record, i use mostly the same techniques everyone else does... I don't have any SP power but when i finally get around to getting some i can't wait to break out the chalk! Especially for those older SDs!~
Weather my MicroTrains cars!?! Hell YES! If it's on the road, it's gonna' get dirty! I change the trucks and rip off the roof walks on the AOW's "rebuilt box car program" cars. I can't tell you how many guys have seen me do this and almost pass out! "Oh my! I think I have the VAPORS!" I love box cars, but if it's on my layout, it's "today" so the roof walks and friction bearing trucks have got to go! Then everything gets a weathering, some light, some heavy. I use Ral Partha water based paints. It's usally used on white metal cast fantasy figures, but works great on model trains as well. If you mess up, you just wash it off with water. If everything is "cool", I seal it down with Testers Dull or Satin finish. I was going to weather my Santa Fe snoot up a bit, but the other day I saw a SF snoot that looked like it was BRAND NEW! It was on the point of a train at Edelstein, IL. I got a great pic of it too! ------------------ BNSF RAILFAN-TO-THE-MAX! Brent Tidaback, Member #234 and a N-Scaler to boot!
