I use a MRC 1300. Check the ELHS advertisers for the best prices. The 9volt battery must be good for portable layouts. I'd like to know how long a typical alkaline 9v lasts. I'd like to see some rechargable 9v batteries so I could recharge for the next event. It would be cool to bring a circle of track to work and not use any hotel power.
Glenn, it depends. With a Marklin engine, it may run for a couple of hours. With a GP35, its going to run all day. The coreless motors are a lot more efficient. Its probably true for AZLs also, but I havent not used the Zthek controllers on them.
I use the FR-1 from Oliver Passmann in Germany. A fine product that gives you excellent control of your engines. You can preset acceleration and braking and there is also a yard-mode-button that gives you better control in slow speed. Check the english translation below. http://www.passmann.com/_fr-1e.html Knut
Myself I use a Passmann controller and I'm very happy with it. My MTL Geeps and AZL SD70s are able to crawl steadily at a scale-man walking speed with it. The MTLs growl a little bit but the AZLs are totally silent with this system. Dom
I'm using the MTL MRC 1300 (and the ProZ controller when using the ProZ modules) but was wondering if anyone was using the MRC AT880 Universal Voltage Reducer (AC/DC) with other power units (like those for HO)? I learned about it from the MRC rep at a show and was wondering if anyone had tried it. http://www.modelrectifier.com/search/product-view.asp?ID=1261
yes, but mostly for dcc. Its a fairly simple circuil, so you can build it yourself. Mine was build by my friend Tony, and it does work.
Rather than the expense and bulk of the MRC board, just don't turn the knob higher then 8 on a 10 scale. ? Like a previous post, you can remount the knob or add a rubber bumper, etc, so it won't "go as far" when turned up all the way. Nothing is going to explode but, if your loco doesn't run well or, you have a long train and/or on a grade, turning up a non-Z power pack will deliver more than the rated voltage which creates more heat in the motor, potentially overheating. Just don't turn it up all the way ! Simple to do. Glen, at 20-40ma (milliamps) that the MTL GP's or AZL SD70's draw, we've run the 9V controllers all day or weekend, no problem. .
Actually, I guess I have "lurked" on TB for a couple of years. I am surprised I never posted. But I am re-exploring Z after getting a MTL GP-9 in WP. I have a couple of older F-7's in WP but need to explore updating them with better motors as they are the 3-pole and leave a lot to be desired. As for 9v battery power - 9.6v NiMH RC car batteries would probably work well. If you want to reduce them to 9 you could put a diode in series (.7 v drop) - probably not a bad idea as then tend to be a bit "hot" after charge - around 10.4. Or use an adjustable 3-terminal regulator. I think they run about 2.4 Ah now - so that should last quite a while. Radio shack has them and an inexpensive Wall-wart type charger.
Using a 9 volt battery can you use a Radio Shack potentiometer? I assume linear taper; they come 5K, 10K, 50K, 100K, 1M ohm (for about $3-4.) What do you need??? The Radio Shack 9.6V, 1600mAh, Ni-MH battery with charger is $20. Adding a reversing switch, and diode, for about $25 you can have a complete set.
I use the Jorger speed controllers which I guess are all sold out. They are flat out amazing. The best controllers out there in my mind. I have used MRC 1300, marklin power suppy, Zthek. None of those are as smooth at the low speeds. If you can't get a Jorger get a Zthek as they are the closest thing out there. If you hook up the gaugemasters with the Jorgers you got a really sweet combination.
The ZTEZ.com website says: "[FONT=Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif]the store is closed until further notice"[/FONT] Where did you get it ... or is there a plan?
Go to Ztrack Magazine I believe they have some in stock still. As far as the Jorgers go, I got mine a few years back and I have not seen them in stock since. So I am not sure what ever happened to them.
