I bought some old built structures and would like to take them apart with out to much damage. The look like they were put together with old model glue, kind of yellowish and cracking. Thanks Polski
Depends on what type of glue. For many acetone will loosen them but it must be used carefully, very potent. It is not good for humans and can weaken the plastic as well. For white glues, simple water is great
Allow me to emphasize the above point. I am 61 and an avid modeler in both model railroads and model cars. I have an extensive background in my youth with surfing, making surfboards, boat repair, and Hobie Cat racing, and all involved use of fiberglass resin. From 15 on I immersed myself in fiberglass resin, and cleaned my hands with acetone, and that went into age 55 when I had to cease racing and surfing for physical reasons. Oh, yes, I forgot to add that I often repaired scratches on my tennis rackets with fiberglass resin and a thin coat of glass. Again, used acetone. After a day in the sun doing whatever I chose that day, I would come home at night and work on my models, again using paints with solvents and drying agents, which translated into acetone. Although I do not show it, I diplomatically avoid handling other's models or projects, even though showed or given permission. I tend to drop things from my grasp, as I do not feel the tool, item in my hand, and it just leaves my grasp. After reading about the effects of paint, solvents, drying agents, glues, fumes, and using acetone on others, which includes cancer, lung issues, and even death, I am extremely thankful, and only use thick rubber gloves when handling acetone based products, like some lacquers and lacquer thinner. I have even cautioned my ex-wife as the nail polish thinner she used directly on her nails and cuticles are full of drying agents (toluene, toluol, acetone) and now she uses sanding sticks. A word to the wise......... I don't avoid using acetone, but exercise extreme care when I do now. Yes, I am still dropping stuff, but now use a modeler's apron when i work with small parts. Ken "FloridaBoy" Willaman
Sometimes you can stick it in the freezer for an hour or so then quickly run it under hot tap water. The thermal shock can break the glue bonds if you are lucky.
Once I had to take apart some wall sections of a Walthers modular building because they were glued at the wrong place. I did it using an Xacto with a new #11 blade. Jacques
"Yellowish and cracking" sounds like they were most likely assembled with yellow wood glue. If so, your best bet will be letting them soak for a while in hot water. If that doesn't do the trick, then soak them in Windex (this will also soften/strip most acrylic paints). If that doesn't do it, then it ain't white or yellow glue!
If the glue ISN'T water-soluble glue, you might try putting the part in the freezer overnight. Often a glue can't hold well when frozen. Also, when you freeze most things (everything except water), they shrink. The plastic will shrink at a different rate from the glue, which could help it separate from the glue. You might also be able to break the glue itself easier once it has been frozen. I always drop candlesticks in the freezer to remove wax from them, and I've done the same with steel parts like rusted nuts and bolts. Note: you have to work while the part is still very cold! But yeah, if it's some kind of cement and it's already cracking, it's especially possible that this will work. Now, there is one problem: once plastic is frozen, it is more brittle. So you'll have to work carefully, getting a #11 blade gently wedged between the part and the glue and moving the blade kind of along the surface with small wiggles if needed instead of prying too much. Cristi
