Many thanks for the tip. As it happens, my LHS carries Smith & Sons. I may ask if they'd order some for me.
Code 25?!?!? Is there an I-profile to that rail or it is just a strip stock material? Amazing how poor that gon looks in comparison!
It's custom-made flat wire, which measures .015 x .025. There is more detail about the wire here: http://whiteriverandnorthern.net/clinic_03.htm At that size, the only way to see that it doesn't have an I profile is to view it under magnification, such as in the photos.
I do this after the rails have been soldered in place. First I gently run a #11 X-Acto knife along the sides of the rail, held at ~45 degrees, several times until the copper is cut through. Then I place the blade tip almost flat against a score line of one tie and push away from the rail; the copper peels off of the PC board relatively easily. It's tedious, to be sure, since there are three steps to perform with each tie, but the results are very satisfying. Sometimes I will also use a knife tip to add wood grain to the bare PC board. I'll usually only do this around the detail areas of a turnout (points and frog), which is where people look the hardest. I've started work on a web page that details the process: http://jamesriverbranch.net/diorama_2.htm
Unfortuntely, the ties are so small that the heat can cause damage to the very tiny pads that hold the rail down. I did it a few times when I was testing the technique in N scale, so now I do everything I can to avoid applying any more heat than necessary.
So in your case, solder while the entire copper is in place (to help dissapate heat), then cut off the areas outside the soldered rail.
That's exactly what I do. I apply the solder to the very end of the tie and let it flow to the rail, so the area under the rail is not overheated, and the end of the tie takes the brunt of the abuse. Then I cut away the excess copper with a knife. Works fine, even though it's a bit tedious. I actually don't mind. The process is detailed here: http://jamesriverbranch.net/diorama_2.htm
Pennsy Cabin Car with Trainphone added Well, since my new GP7 had the inductive antenna for the Pennsy trainphone, I decided that I needed a cabin car to go with it. So, I used a modified N-Scale antenna kit from Bowser, and ladders from Micron Art and some home made roof walk sections to modify one of my MT cabooses. My less than fabulous painting skills, coupled with a cottage cheese like (5+ year old) bottle of PRR freight car red, didn't help much, but, It's not too bad for a first try. It looks a lot better from a couple of feet back. I still need to weather it a bit and fix some of my paint job, but, anyway, here it is. Dan S.
Pennsy Cabin Car with Trainphone Here's a few more pics on a small diorama. Next I want to add trainphone antennae to a couple of tenders. Dan S.
Well, the caboose is an MT Pennsy, I just modified it slightly. Both ladders were moved to the opposite side, new roof walk was added at the new ladder positions, and the antenna was added. Also switched to body mount couplers to avoid truck interference with the antenna. Dan S.
Dan, It is come out real good. How is it sitting on the roof? it looks well attached. Also the wire and the stantions are they free to move, I could use this for the co-op loco stantions, more details please. Kim
