Which Airbrush for me?

I have given up on my super duper metal Aztec. It is now inoperative again and will not spray paint. Aztec has already fixed it and the same thing occured. Air pressure and paint for a while and then no paint. I have the cleaning station and have used it. I used their cleaner and I also used a straight 91% alcohol spray.

I would like to purchase a Badger. My requirements are fine detail and line work and I use only acrylic paints. Which model should I purchase?

 

Mark:

I use an Aztec A4709 and find that it works very well. It isn't made out of metal. I've been using it for years.

The Badger airbrushes do a great job as well.

My last Badger brush was purchase in the early 1970's if memory serves me correctly....

Stay cool and run steam......

 

Mark,

The only airbrushing I've done in the past five years is painting some loco shells PRR DGLE, which is virtually black and not much of an airbrush challenge.

From 1975 to perhaps 1995, I did a lot of airbrushing, but in the N scale hobby and for architectural models, antique furniture repair, and even for my Italian cars.

I never truly mastered a dual-action airbrush. I had a very expensive internal mix Paasche model. I managed to clog it all the time.

I was much happier with the top of the line Badger single-action, which I think is still about $90. Easy to clean, easy to get great results.

From what you describe as your needs, I'd get the best you can afford--and it's my opinion that, unless you use a brush regularly, get a single action one.

 

I use single action, too. I paint the basic color or mask the color. I don't draw lines or intricate patterns, so I go along with Pete. I have a single action, external mix Paasche H that has had nozzles and tips replaced several times.

 

When I shoot acrylics, the gun will clog straight away if there is not enough thinner. I use plain old tap water. You can play around with the mixture, but I find the correct mix is just before the water beads on the model you are shooting. It's a lot more than you would think. I use beading wire (from the arts store) to unclog my gun when it gets all gunked up.

Sometimes you will notice clumps of paint in your bottles, especially if they are old or have gotten hot. You can finter the clumps out, or just get a new bottle. Once clumped up, toss it!

 

You can use small metal filters or some cheescloth to filter the paint and remove the clumps that form after awhile.


Stay cool and run steam.....

 

Mark, I have found the biggest problem with the Aztek when using acrylics is not with the airbrush, but with testor’s “no disassembly needed to clean” theory. For best success use the nozzles designed for acrylics, #9340C(the black one) and 9341C(the white one). As Tony said very thin paint is key. When you have it thinned to where it looks adequate, thin it some more. After you have thinned it, strain it through some pantyhose. If it won’t flow through the pantyhose, its not thin enough. When spraying, as soon as you start to notice diminished paint flow STOP AND CLEAN THE TIP IMMEDIATELY by removing your paint cup and attaching another one filled with some Windex and spray until clear. Do not wait for it to plug completely or it will be harder to clean. If it does plug, the nozzle is easily disassembled by pulling the colored insert out of the tip (aqua colored on the white nozzle, white colored on the black nozzle), it is just a light press fit. With good magnification you will see the built-up paint around the tip of the insert. It does not adhere very well to the type of plastic the insert is made out of and can be removed easily with the tip of a round wooden toothpick. When changing colors and when done spraying, pop the nozzle apart and clean the tip with a brush and some windex and you will have years of trouble free use.

 

I will have you know I went out and bought one of the highest quality airbrushes available, with all the accessories. I got a really good compressor with reservoir tank, filter and de-humidifier.

Nothing but the best for me, I’ll have you know.

I then bought books and magazines detailing how to use an airbrush, then spent many long hours practicing its use.

And I have the bags and boxes full of old boxcar and hopper car shells to prove it.

I can now say that I use my airbrush for virtually all my spray painting needs.

I use the f@&%!^g thing to pry the tops off of spray paint cans.

I have come to the conclusion that these things were originally developed in the “Dark Ages” as a tool of the “Inquisition” and that the people in our hobby that can successfully use airbrushes are in league with the Devil.

Yep! That’s right they have made a Faustian bargain, and somewhere in their attic or cellar is a painting of a locomotive that is getting ever more grotesque and hideous with each diesel or steam loco they paint.

Maybe I’m being unfair to these folks. Maybe they are just this ages alchemists, gifted with talents and knowledge denied us “Mundanes”.

In either case, those who have demonstrated true mastery of the airbrush are one more group of people……That really, really annoy me.

 

Well, here's the story, sad but true, (about a girl that I once knew, she ran around with every brush in town.............)

I saw a 40% off add for AC Moore. I purchased a Badger 150.

In the meanwhile, I had every Aztec nozzle disassembled as much as possible and in separate cups filled with Windex and being agitated in a jewelry cleaner. It was a travail getting them apart from all the gunk. They are now perfectly cleaned and assembled. I have always found that working with acrylics clogs me up. Obviously, it is my fault for too thcik a mix since others have no such problems. I will be learning the Badger over the weekend. If it cleans easier than the Aztec, it will be my weapon of choice.

 

Please do let us know. I avoid AC Moore beause it can cost me $30 an hour to walk through the doors, (and that is when I just go to look).