I am about to jump into the world of digital photography myself. Here are the 2 cameras I am trying to decide to buy. The first camera is the fuji Finepix 2800. This is the camera I'd really like but it is more expensive. At this stage I can purchase for $800AUS or approx $400US. The one advantage it has over other cameras is Fujinon optical 6x zoom lens, equivalent to 38mm to 228mm on a 35mm camera. The second camera is the Canon Powershot A40 this is slightly cheaper at $670AUS or $335US It is very compact and does allow manual settings. Here are links to reviews of both cameras which should I buy? Canon Powershot A40 Fuji Finepix 2800
Paul, I guess you can tell from the overwhelming number of replies that most of us have no digital camera experience. My son in law has a Nikon Coolpix 9XX which does an excellent job. I'm still using my Pentax and scanning the photos.
first of all I do not own a digital camera although I do plan to get one one day. which one is best for you really depends on what you want it for. I personally woud choose the cheaper Canon Powershot A40 Here's the pro's and cons as far as I see it. Canon Powershot A40 Pros vs fuji Finepix 2800 1. Manual mode. - this is something I'd want but if you're not particually into photography then you may not care. Might allow you to take better shots in some situations. 2. Built in lens cap - ok this isn't big but it's nice so that you don't loose it. 3. conversion lenses - You can get telephoto conversion lenses etc. it gives you a little more flexibility. With the fuji you're stuck with what's on there. 4. accessories - You can get a waterproof case good to 100ft! I like to dive. I'd love to have something like that but probably not important to you. 5. size - It's smaller nice if you're going out and want to take pictures you can slip it in a pocket easly. Canon Powershot A40 Cons vs fuji Finepix 2800 1. Thats a nice big lens on the fuji 6X zoom. great if your planning on taking wildlife pictures or just to give you a little more flexibility. This has to be the absolute biggest pro for the fuji. 2. fuji's memory card is twice as big which = 2x as many photos. Not really a big deal as you could always upgrade the memory card if it causes a problem 3. The review mentions a small delay between pussing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture on the canon. This has to be the biggest drawback. I hate camers that do this. I'm sure there are other things but I hope I was of some help. [ 07 July 2002, 06:50: Message edited by: Paul Davis ]
Hi Paul, Never used the above named camera's, so can't say how they would perform. My Digital is ab Olympus C700 ultra zoom, can be bought now for around $400 in the USA so I have been told. For me, this camera is perfect for all uses and most of all for Model photography. Here's the link for it. Paul. http://cf.olympus-europa.com/consumer/digimg/intro.cfm?id=C-700+ULTRA+ZOOM
Thanks Paul Davis for your comments and what you say makes a lot of sense. For some reason I like the shape of the finepix and the 6 times telephoto but the A40 does look to be the better overal package. Paul Templar, The camera you have is certainly an excellent camera unfortunately it is out of my price range costing $1150AU. Here is a pic of the camera [ 07 July 2002, 09:27: Message edited by: Colonel ]
I am new to digital photography. I have had my Nikon Coolpix 995 for only about three weeks, but I am very happy with it. One deciding factor with it was that I could manually override every automatic function. I bought it for $520.00 (US). With shipping, extra memory and a spare battery I paid an additional $100.00 (US). Here is a web site I found very helpful. It has reviews of many digital cameras, and the reviews are very detailed. http://www.dpreview.com/
I have not seen any mention of resolution here, which in my opinion is extremely important. I also like a camera that has: 1. A battery pac that can be recharged while remaining within the camera. This allows downloading images without draining battery power; 2. Option(s) to over-ride automatic settings giving priority to either aperture or shutter; 3. The ability to change ISO settings; 4. Macro capability; 5. A flash gun 'hot-shoe' to create special lighting effects; 6. And last but not least, some degree of mechanical zoom over what may be available electronically. We recently purchased a Sony Cyber-shot 3.3 megapixel camera with all the above features to name just a few. The only thing that I don't like about the Sony is the fact they have their own format for media storage. Other than that it's a great camera!
Here's my two cents worth. I'm not into digital cameras, but a camera is a camera ,so far as certain basic features are concerned. If you plan to use this camera for model railroad photography, then close focusing and depth of field are probably the most important features to investigate. Many people refer to these collectively as macro mode. These features are dependent on the lens, not the camera, per se. The 6x zoom is a great feature, but if it doesn't let you focus unless you're at least 10 feet away, it won't be of much value. Similarly, if you can't stop down the lens to get good depth of field, the foreground and background will be blurry with just part of your subject in good focus. The trouble is that depth of field and close focusing are generally contradictory specifications for a lens. I have four lenses for my 35mm SLR camera, and still haven't found the ideal lens for every situation. So evaluate carefully. If you can, talk to knowledgable photography buffs about this. Test the cameras and compare if you can. To me, the most appealing feature about digital cameras is that you can instantly evaluate the results of your photo shoot. I have to make several test shots, then wait until the film has been processed to find out I have to try a different setup. Paul Templar had some great tips a while back on one of the Trainboard sites - it might have been here or in the Inspection Pit. If you can find his posting, it can give you good insight with some great examples of what it takes to make outstanding photos. Best regards, Mike - NYC1956
After much consideration I finally purchased a Canon A40 camera. I have been busy reading the manual and taking a few shots. The camera is easy to use and the picture quality is excellent. I will post some pictures over the next few days
I jumped into digital photography a couple months ago and am still learning, but I'm getting better with practice. I purchased a Kodak DX3600; it's neither low end or high end. It's easy to operate and has good features, including zoom. Closeups are great. I also purchased an Epson Stylus C60 printer so I can create color photos. You may not want a printer, but I'm tossing it into the discussion just in case you're wondering about printers. Again, mine is neither low end or high end. I buy what I can afford.
Here are a couple of pics taken with my new camera [ 07. September 2002, 09:32: Message edited by: Colonel ]
Eggcelent Paul. OK - photo tip 101 - on the CP SD90 shot it looks like the camera is resting on the tracks (is it, or are you holding it?) Anway - if you can place the camera on a steady surface (such as a near by track, stucture, the scenery - anything stable) you can use a small apurature (for greater depth of field) - but you have to use a long exposure - this means you can't hold the camera. First - put the camera in the apurature priority mode (usually an 'A' will appear) and then select the LARGEST number available. You will notice that the exposure time will increase as well - possibly as much as a full second exposure. Next set the Self Timer. Third - compose, focus and set the camera on a solid surface - if you have a focus lock or manual focus settings you might want to use these here. Where the camera is focused in that SD90 pic is exactly where you want to focus - with 'wedge shots' I like to focus midway to the rear of the lead unit. Forth - press the release and step back (you did stop the train didn't you?) when the self timer is up the camera will take a picture and you should see the whole of the lead locomotive in focus. That my fiend is depth of field.
Thanks rob I was going to ask thequestion about depth of field. So I need to have the largest f stop is that right? I only took that pic quickly just to see how clear it was. Thanks for the tip i will go and check my manual about increasing the f stop manually . I gather 2.8 is the best for maximum depth of field??? Will have to have you and amy over after we get back from our South Pacific cruise. We leave on Oct 2 for 10 days [ 07. September 2002, 22:23: Message edited by: Colonel ]
I've done a little more reading lol and the camera aperture setting can be set from F2.8 to F14 providing the shutter speed is varied as Rob said. So which setting gives greater depth of field the higher or lower setting?
The BIGGER number, which in reality is the SMALLER aperture opening. Makes a lot of sense, eh? On a conventional camera, Pentax, 50mm, f2 lens, if you set the aperture at f2 (wide open) and have the focus set on 8 ft., it is in focus for 8ft. period. ZERO depth of field. On the other hand if you set the aperture at f22, smallest opening, and focus on 8 ft., anything from 4 ft. to 25 ft. will be in focus, a "depth of field" of 21 ft.. As Watash would say, "see?"
I think I will have to do a lot of experimenting until i work this out. How does the macro setting effect all this? [ 08. September 2002, 09:38: Message edited by: Colonel ]
The Macro mode just tells the camera that you are planning to take a close up picture - the camera will not attempt to focus on anything far away. You'll get the hang of it.
I just posted another pic The same picture below was taken after Robs advice. shutter speed 1 second aperture setting F9 You can see that the front of the loco is slightly out of focus yet the rest of the train is in focus. I suppose only practice will make perfect. funnily enough I did not use Macro, the pics I tried with Macro brought the front of the loco into focus but not the rest of the train. [ 08. September 2002, 09:38: Message edited by: Colonel ]
Cool - the depth of field difference is obvious isn't it? Now to get the front of the locomotive in focus you will need to use the macro mode but don't focus on the front of the locomtive - focus at the rear of the SD90. That should give you a picture with the whole locomotive in focus and most of the train in focus (the mounatain should be out of focus - but that helps to give a feeling that it is even farther away than it really is.)
