Z: Maximum grade

MANDONY Aug 27, 2009

  1. MANDONY

    MANDONY TrainBoard Member

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    Just that, what do you feel the maximum grade to be in-order not to have typical trains stall or slow down too much.

    The Marklin pillar sets seem to have 2 degree; is that a usual suggestion?

    How do you build?
     
  2. david f.

    david f. TrainBoard Supporter

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    2% is good. stay with that as much as you can. 3% is starting to press things. you begin to see traction suffer significantly. 4% when you simply HAVE TO but don't expect less than 2 engines to pull any more than 10 cars (in general). add curves to the grades and you deteriorate pulling performance even more significantly across the board.
    dave f.
     
  3. HOexplorer

    HOexplorer TrainBoard Supporter

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    I think you can get by with 4% before real issues begin. That is percent on a straight line! Once you start with curves you add friction. Two GP35's will pull 10 plus cars up 4%. Two GP35's will pull 15+ cars up 2%. If you have a small layout an need to get up and over then 3 or 4% is the way to go. Remember friction. If you are building a larger layout I would stick with 2%. If you like to go in one direction, ie. clockwise, then use 2% up and 3% down. Saves space. You can get many ideas and variables for your query. Everyone has a story. Cheers, Jim CCRR
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 27, 2009
  4. craz3474

    craz3474 TrainBoard Member

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    If you are building a module to Z Bend Standards then 2% is the maximum on straights and 1.5% on curves.
     
  5. shamoo737

    shamoo737 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    If I remember correctly, Marklin pillars are pretty steep. Jim and David use the GP35 as a example for pulling power, but if you use Marklin engines, its going to be less because they are lighter. A alternative method to Marklin pillar is to use Woodland Scenic risers. The ones I seen are two degrees. Can you be more specific on how long and how big is your layout, then we can give you some specific answers.
     
  6. MANDONY

    MANDONY TrainBoard Member

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    Say, you have a bridge with 40mm (1.6 inch) under, enough height to have a train running under. You need about 44 inch straight run each side at 2 degree grade. From above, it was said that with turns, it is best to use 1.5 grade. Using the worst case (with a 44 x 2 + 4 inch bridge) you need 110 inches of track.

    Therefore,
    the smallest circle layout with a bridge, high enough to run a track under, would be 28 inch (712mm) square.

    (I measured Marklin. The pillars are 4mm increments. The straight runs are 110mm)
     
  7. craz3474

    craz3474 TrainBoard Member

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    The 1.5% curve grade is the Z Bend standard for modules, not layouts. The small grades on Z Bend modules allows the running of longer trains. If long trains are not a priority or you don't plan running with other modules then you can have greater grades.
    I am working on a 80" Z Bend module that has two straight mainlines that cross in the middle. There is a similar one featured in one of the past Z Track issues.
    It's great to see you doing the math. I find the engineering a fun part of building the layout.
     
  8. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    One sure way to find out is to build what you want with temporary risers and see how it works with thr trains you want to run, then you can adjust the risers as needed before making the track permanent.

    I prefer to make my track level, and make the scenery go up and down, as that's what the real railroads try to do. When the real railroads need to, they build a grade, then run as many locos as needed to get the trains over that grade.

    I tested an AZL GP7 to climb a 20% grade on clean track due to its traction tire's gripping.
     
  9. sumgai

    sumgai TrainBoard Member

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    Has anyone experimented with how much the application of Bullfrog Snot (liquid traction tire) improves grade climbing?
     
  10. shamoo737

    shamoo737 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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  11. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    I purchased a jar of it from Z Scale Monster to try, but have not had the time yet. I plan on examining my Marklin Mikado, to see which drivers are the furthest from the rails, then applying the bullfrog snot to that loco first. I know I can only pull 10 cars with that loco, so any more is an improvement.

    As far as grades, i will do a before and after grade test.
     
  12. shamoo737

    shamoo737 Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I used traction tires on the GP35, and it works but at a price. It tends to stall on turnouts at low speed. If you only going to run it on the mainline, then it works great. Once it goes into the yard, you better turn the cars over to a switcher.
     
  13. david f.

    david f. TrainBoard Supporter

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    yes, it's great stuff! i have only a loop of track currently, so i can't give your specifics or precentage improvements. but i went from 10 cars to 15 with Snot on one of my less than stellar performing marklin steamers.

    dave

    p.s. anthony at Z scale monster sells it.
     
  14. rdgnut

    rdgnut TrainBoard Member

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    Try trimming the BULLFROG SNOT from the flange area of your wheels.

    Regards,
    Bill
     
  15. ddechamp71

    ddechamp71 TrainBoard Member

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    Myself I chose to work with 3% grades (Woodlands Scenics inclines) on the small layout I'm workin on. These grades are associated with 14"/35cm radius curves. I'm running in the average a 18-20-car train consisting of a mix of MTL and AZL cars (lighter) and FR-Models hoppers and woodchip gondolas (heavier).

    Typically a trio of unmodified GP35 or a pair of SD70 are OK for the job. No stalls, no spinning wheels, but of course a far greater speed downgrade than upgrade, which implies to work the throttle like the prototype.:tb-wink:

    Dom
     

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