Z-Scale Max Voltage

So after we get past the "Max volts", now you can see that we talk about making it run better. The Pulse Power packs mentioned early on, used mostly for the larger scales, had a purpose. Motors are designed to run a rated voltage. If the voltage is lower, they do not run as effeciently. Further, if you are starting a motor, there is a finite threshold to get it started. In other words, get the electromagnetic poles to overcome the permanent magnets. This takes a volt or two. So this concept of pulse power where the motor so pulse at full volts for a short time, enough to get over this inertial point but not run fast. The best way to do this is PWM or Pulse Width Modulation. For lowest speed, the full voltage is applied say 1% of the time and off 99%. For mid speed, 50/50 and faster 80/20 on to full speed at 100% pulse. This is normally done at high frequency, much higher than the old 60 or 120Hz of the HO days. With these controllers, your locos can crawl, really, really slow.

The Zthek Snail Controller, FR-1, Joerger, Rokuhan, etc all use this PWM technique. Well worth the $5-$10 more.
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Three things:

First, is the MRC 1370 basically the same as the 1300 (no pulse circuitry)?

Second, I was looking at the little white Marklin (67271) transformer and it is pricey ($170 or so). I also noticed that I could buy a Marklin starter set with what looks to be the exact same transformer for $190 and it comes with a steam engine, two cars and track. If I were to get the Marklin transformer, I would just buy the starter set.

Third, I was looking at ZTrack and there is a ZTrack Snail Speed controller and a ZThek Snail Speed controller. What are the differences and can the $34.50 ZTrack controller have an AC Adapter plugged into it?

Thanks again for all of the comments and suggestions.

 

Both controllers have the same circuit. The smaller controller only operates with a 9V standard battery, while the larger, universal controller can be used with a plug in 9V DC power supply, or for portability, a 9V battery. Both controllers were designed for safe and precise, control of all kind of Z-scale locomotives. They have built in overload and short circuit protection with automatic shut off and reset. One more note, no accessory outlet, so the power for turnouts lights, signals, etc need to be provided by another power source.

 

For the first one that only operates with a 9 volt battery (say a Duracell or Energizer), at a normal throttle setting, about how long with a battery last? Also, can you use rechargeable 9 volt batteries in this controller?

Thanks again.

 

The life of battery depends on the type of locomotive, the load it carries, and the quality of battery. A new Duracell can run an MTL GP35 with a dozen cars behind for about 20 hours, while an F7, or a Marklin locomotive will suck off the juice in less than four hours. The rechargable batteries go out of power a lot faster, but to maintain a charged spare helps to lower the overall cost.

 

My experience with this controller is that it will run a gp35 pulling 9 cars around a small layout for more than a day. But it depends on the battery too the speed of the loco and the controller. A copper top in the Zthek Snail speed controller will last far longer than a cheapie from the dollar store. Yes you can use a rechargeable battery also but my experience is you need to carry two of these for a full day of operating at a show as even fully charged they do not seem to have the capacity of a brand new top of the line battery off the store shelf of the non- rechargeable type. You will need another device to recharge your battery as it can not be recharged by AC adapter in the Universal model because when you plug in the AC adapter the battery is disconnected. battery chargers are not friendly devices for powering your Z trains. I have also built battery packs with parts from radio shack to connect 4x 9v batteries in parallel for replacing wall transformers where all of a sudden I am at the show and there is no AC outlet close by or available. These battery packs will typically last me several shows. When all is said and done if you want to have fun with Z trains you need to go to a a source that is z friendly and unless your local pusher is Z knowledgeable they are not the best source for information and power packs and such. If you are savvy electrically there are lots of options that can be made to work once you know the limits of the device you are powering.

 

I myself am a fan of the Jorger delux. It is sick...plain old sick...it makes the worse running locomotives run smooth. I also use gaugemasters to help.

Now the Jorgers are battery powered, but I use a walwart adapter for my permanent layout. Also, they are hard to come by, I think you have to order from Germany now to get them, and I know someone had the link, I'd like to get a few more myself for future projects.

Now the snail speed controller is the 2nd best out there for us DC folk. It is very good with the coreless motors. I use it on my roundy round and my portable track set ups and it is dependable. The real difference is not creep speed which is about the same, but that mid range slow speed for marklin steam. The Jorger kinda acts like it has a slower more dependable low end.

The MRC from MT is good with gaugemasters, but If I am not going portable, I'd get a Jorger or snail. MY two cents.

 

Get the Jorger here.
Also get the reversing switch.

 

Ztrackcenter had the Joeger at one time and that is where I originally got the ones I have. I put mine in a mini box to make it hand held and added a direction switch and indicator lights plus a socket for a 9vdc wall transformer or 9vdc battery pack. I think there is a picture around somewhere of the unit and I voted it best in class for Z and Nn3 at the time. There was even a solid state controller that was designed to fit into the Marklin 9v battery controller and added speed control to the controller from the Marlin Play set.