4001Atchison Topeka & Santa Fe2418blue/yellow doese anyone know anything about this switcher.r they any good
I have two of those switchers. They work fairly well if you run wires between them; otherwise they stall on some frogs or trackwork that is slightly irregular. Art
The cabs are wrong on the shells, and they may or may not run well depending on which mechanism is under the shell (these were originally made by Rivarossi for Atlas around 1970 or so, and later were sold by Concor with at least one of the mechanisms made by Kato). EMD Diesel "Cow & Calf" Mark
You sure it's the Rivarossi? Is the motor where the fuel tank is,a big round one? With the weight in the cab,it looks like a Kato/CC.The Rivarossi is pretty much poop,I've only seen one or two over the years that were even worth running.The Kato/CC isn't too bad,they're smooth,but start pretty fast...
I have one of those by Con-Cor, and have to agree with Lou on the fast start! Takes mine quite a bit of voltage to start. But quiet, and pulls my cars ok
The unit pictured and inquired about appears to be a Rivarossi SW1500 Cow and Calf with the Kato mechanism. The only tell is the solid zamac mechanism blocking the cab windows. On the Rivarossi unit the cab windows are a little more open. A post on the Atlas board described this model best. The Rivarossi mechanism was like a lady who changed her mind and personality every day. The Kato unit is more consistent and has more drawbar strength along with the usual Kato performance characteristics. Ken "Floridaboy" Willaman
Just in case you didn't know, the RR/Atlas ConCor SW1500's are not accurate models. They are based on drawings of a proposed SW1500 (including the flat, angled cab roof) but the actual proto SW1500 was differently constructed. The model represents a fictitious prototype.
Concor SW1500 Smaller Flanges Is it possible to get smaller flanges for these engines? I have the unpowered calf and would like a better appearance. Thanks.
I just cut the existing flanges down by chucking the axle in my moto-tool and filing them down while they spin. I did the same on all my Arnold S2s also.
According to magazine reviews back when these came out it was based on pre-production drawings. The Atlas SD45 (Mehano) also was based on pre-production drawings which explains why the radiator flares only have two panels (instead of 3). At least that's what I remember. Mark
I've had Atlas/Rivarossi, Con-Cor Rivarossi, Con-Cor Kato, Life-like and Kato SW/NW-whatevers. The Life-Like and Kato are head and shoulders above the predecessors, and if your buyer is mis-identifying it as a Life-Like, I'd just steer clear. If actual operations - slow speed and electrical pickup - are important to you - rather than the body shell and paint scheme, that's my opinion.
No worries! That was pretty easy. I reduced the flange diameter by .025 inches down to a .300 inch diameter flange. The flanges no longer strike my poor ballast technique in my yard. Cleaning and lubricating this unpowered SW1200/1500 also helped it roll a lot better. Thanks for the tip, Russell. :thumbs_up: I couldn't fit the 40 inch diameter wheel in my hand tool, so I just used a plain 3/8 inch electric drill. Here are the wheel sets after turning them down. I used a triangular file and shaped the flanges to my best estimate. I was worried about picking points and frogs, but I don't seem to have any problem. I will say to measure often as you turn it down; you can't get it back. The did have a proper gauge. It diesn't seem like much, but it really improved operation.