Givens- Unitrack makes for much smoother assembly and operation. Unitrack is much more expensive. I would rather spend the money on rolling stock since I already have all the Atlas Code 80 track and turnouts that I will need for the redesign of the top of my layout, but if it installs and runs easier, I will bite the bullet for my mental health. I have been frustrated with my Code 80 trackwork and will need several areas of 9 3/4" curved sections because of size constraints on top level. I am sceniced on most of the bottom layer (cookie cutter rectangular layout) and do not want to destroy aqueducts, etc., redesign and rebuild much of the bottom layer to rid myself of a few of the tighter turns. Once I completely finish this rectangular layout, I have been given consent to take 1/2 of the basement and expand around the walls to my heart's content. I will expand, for sure, with Unitrack since I do not want another 3 month hiatus into superelevated turns and soldering Atlas track and Flextrack. Questions- Are the Unitrack pieces analogous in size to available Atlas Code 80 products, i.e. straight track Atlas # 2501 labeled 5" and Kato 20-020 4 7/8"?? Obviously, there is a 1/8" difference, but there really is not with this Atlas piece since it actually measures 4 7/8". Does this mislabeling of the Atlas size run through its product line? Is the Kato size labeling actually accurate? Is there any difference in wiring the turnouts with the Kato? Is there any difference in basic wiring of a reverse loop with the Kato. Answers will be most appreciated.
Hi, Fotheringill, As far as my unscientific sampling of experience with Kato Unitrack shows..... The Unitrack pieces are not exactly the same size as the Atlas Code 80 - part of the reason is the Unitrack is in metric. The Kato size labeling seems to be accurate. No difference in the basic wiring of a reverse loop with the Kato Unitrack. I'm not sure, but I think the Kato turnout switch motors might be different than the Atlas, (I've never used the Atlas). Kato uses momentary contact turnout controllers, Kato makes and sells their own Unitrack turnout controllers and others have substituted appropriately - the key word here is you must use *momentary* switches, otherwise the Kato switch motors (which are imbedded in the underside of the turnouts) get burned out by constant current flowing to them. I do have some photos of the underside of the Kato Unitrack turnout switch motors for our reference at: http://community.webshots.com/album/63811183jlGNcs And there, you can see how I documented how the Kato Unitrack turnouts work. There is a Yahoo Kato Unitrack group that is a wealth of good info: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KatoUnitrack The topic of the momentary DPDT switches that control the Kato Unitrack turnouts have been discussed at that Yahoo group extensively, search the archives there or ask the question over again, they're a helpful bunch, you can join there and get tons of good info. Or, keep asking here! Hope this helps!
Please expand on what your needs are in wiring turnouts. Just basic turnout operation? Katos are power-routing turnouts with the switch machines built-in (therefore the cost); two wires from it connect to momentary contact switches to throw the turnout as John noted. Easy and reliable (Unitrack and John). here are always good deals on slightly used or new Unitrack on TASWDMH. Whatever the situation, I thinks Unitrack's worth it for the way it handles so many problem locos well (per other threads) . You may have also read the problems of the Kato #4 turnout (not meant to be a high speed turnout) and the modifications that may be needed (also in threads on Trainboard), but I've found at least an equal number of Atlas turnouts needing adjustment overall.
Mark: The Kato Unitrack is accurate as far as measurements go. You will probably be able to use the same track pattern that you have with the Atlas code 80 rail. The #6 turnouts and double crossovers run flawlessly. It is a pleasure to have any type of train run without any derailments through the turnouts, double crossovers and crossovers. Wiring the turnouts and reverse loops with Unitrack is easy. I have four reverse loops and one turntable on the JJJ&E. The controls that Kato uses for their turnouts are reliable and can be wired to your power supply with an adpater that is available from Kato. The track stay free from grime and rarely needs to be cleaned. The Unitrack runs flawlessly with DCC. The roadbed, ties, spikes and rails can be painted to improve it's appearance. You can also add very fine ballast between the ties as well and glue the ballast in position. The Unitrack is easy to work with if you have multiple levels. Feeders can be soldered to the outside rails for extremely fine conductivity. If you factor in the reliability and performance of your railroad on Kato Unitrack, the cost is not an issue. I have no problems running all my steam loco's and diesels on Unitrack. I do however bank the track on curves as I explained to you in other posts. Contact me if you have other questions about Kato Unitrack. Stay cool and run steam.....
I question the statement that Kato Unitrack is much more expensive, simply because it doesn't take into account additional the cost of roadbed and other materials that are required in conjunction with traditional sectional and flex-track, let alone the additional labor involved. When all is said and done, I doubt if there is more than a 15% premium for Unitrack, particularly if you shop for lowest price someplace like www.toytrainheaven.com.
In the context of Woodland Scenics foam or Midwest Products cork, no, certainly not in my opinion. I wouldn't even ballast the stuff, just give it a good wash to make it look more realistic and maybe paint the ties.
Mark, thank you for asking this question. I was getting ready to. Looks like I may opt for it. Any one kow how 25yo engines and rolling stock with pizza cutter wheels run on it. Also how do the Bachman industrial diesles work?
I use Unitrack at home. I've used it on 3 layouts so far with a 100% salvage rate for re-use. Compared to flex or other brands of sectional, I have saved money because I am able to re-use everything. The Kato #4 (approx 19" radius) switches caused problems, but ATSF_Arizona's thread shows you how to fix that in a couple of minutes. Kato doesn't mess up often, but the #4s are not up to the quality of the rest of the Unitrack line, out of the box. The metal frog switches will run almost anything, because there are no dead spots. The code 80 profile handles all of the old Arnold and Minitrix stuff that I still run, and those are some deep flanges. There are some 30-40 year old European trains that don't like the switches or the "rerailer" section. 90% of my roster has Microtrains standard wheelsets ("pizza cutters"). Never a problem. I left a train running unattended once for over 12 hours by mistake. It was still running when I got home, no problems. I find Unitrack to be virtually bulletproof in operation. There are compromises in appearance some will not be able to live with, and I respect that. For me, once it is down and blended in, the track is just one more generic scenic element, and I find the overall effect pleasing. Your own results, of course, may vary.
What I like best about the Kato track is that it really connects to the next piece very well. Underneath the track are sprung clips that grip their neighbor well, making for smooth rail transition AND excellent electrical flow. Many people advocate separate power leads to EVERY piece of track (when using sectional track) but you don't have to do that with Kato. I've only been operational for a couple months but have had zero track problems, and that's not due to my skills! What I like least is its appearance. Several folks have made theirs look better with washes etc., but that's far in the future for me.
I have to say after agonizing over the decision for quite a while..... I removed the Atlas code55 and just plopped some Unitrack down on my layout. It already runs far better than it ever did before. There is still much work to be done, But I am positive it will be worth it. Loco1999
Loco1999, sorry to hear you had to pull up your track. That is a hard decision to make. On the other hand, I'm glad it is working out for you. In terms of tunnel clearances and whatnot, do you find the height of the Unitrack to be the same as the roadbed and flex you pulled up, or did you have to compensate?
Loco1999, Looks to me you made the right decision. Running trains is what it's all about and, if the trains run better, then you made the right decision.
Jeez, Now you guys have me thinking about re_thinking my track purchases. Perhaps I should be thinking of Kato unitrack for mains and others for industrial trackage. Has anyone tried this method?
GG: Kato Unitrack works with any type of wheel set. It is code 80 track. I converted all my MT plastic wheel sets to Atlas 33" metal wheel sets for MT trucks and I have no derailments with the metal wheel sets. I never had a derailment problem with the plastic wheel sets. If operation is equally important to you, then Kato Unitrack is the way to go. You'll have no track manintenance issues at all. Stay cool and run steam....
If Geeky is thinking code 55 for the industrial trackage, then that works. Mixing is no major problem except for appearance (tie spacing in particular). If code 80 all around, you might consider using the Kato switches all around and using flex to connect the areas that don't/won't connect perfectly with Unitrack sections. Personally, I'd still go for cork or something underneath as a sound killer. Loco, don't forget you might have clearance issues if you put the Unitrack in the tunnel. Man, do you work fast!
I use unitrack too. Here is a picture of the left side. I use no6 for main line and no4 for yard and one siding. Also see layout progress further down the list.
One inch foam strips and WS risers acts as a sound deterrent. You don't need cork as a sub roadbed. Stay cool and run steam....
