Geeky- Please check ALL on line supply sources for price and reliability AND watch those shipping charges. Please see my post of today at the Inspection Pit board with an example of the shipping charges. You might well decide to go to your LHS as a result.
TGB, It's a mix of AZ Rock ballast. I painted the base and rails railroad tie brown first. Thanks, Loco1999
TGB: I had trains running on the layout after the Unitrack was luted to the foam to secure it and all the feeders were wire to the Unitrack and the bus lines I use for DCC. The trains run and run and run with no problems at all. ToyTrain Heaven has the best prices for Unitrack online. It's been four years now... Stay cool and run trains on Unitrack...
I have seen issues with the turnouts mentioned here. I was not sure if it was just one size or another and only during higher speed. I intend to use #6 on mainline and access to mainline. #4s in my yard and industrial areas. 15" Curves - Mainline 12" or less in industrial area. Gryphin and Gradure Track Plan, (almost final version) Gryphin and Grandure I can see myself pushing at most ten 50' / 60' cars into the yard from the yard lead. At the moment i can also see them derailing. Will 12 axel Alan Curtis cars let themselves be pushed over #4 turn outs? I'm open to suggestions. [ 25. November 2004, 15:38: Message edited by: Grey Gryphin ]
GG: The Unitrack #4 turnouts have operating problems, that must be addressed. I avoided using the #4 turnouts on the JJJ&E. I used the #6 and double crossovers exclusively and they run extremely well. I have two # 4's that I might use in my new turntable/engine facility module., where running many cars through the turnout won't be a factor. John Sing has a tutorial on how to adjust the #4 turnouts on his Webshots website. I would use the # 6 turnouts entirely if at all possible. I haven't had any problems backing 20+ car trains through the # 6's. Stay cool and run steam.....
Thanks PSG, #6s it is. I would rather sacrafice space for reliabilty than deal with %$@$%^ issues. Guess I'll find out if I can put a compound yard in a 1x4 foot area. know what, I will do it anyway because I like what they look like. Ed, thanks again for doing my plan up in the Atlas(tm) track software. It really gives me a practical starting plact to get impractical from. < the Greatful Gryphin Gryns >
GG: In a 1x4' area you could put in six tracks in a ladder. If you can use two lead-in's the yard track will be larger. In the 48"x30" turntable module I'm building I have 4 yard tracks in the module as well. I'll try and post some photo's this weekend. I have the track luted to the foam and will drop the feeders this evening or tomorrow. I plan on using feeders for every section of track. This is what I did on the entire trackwork of the JJ&E. It's more work, but there is no problem with voltage drops. I prefer this method with DCC anyways. Think about using several double crossovers. Stay cool and run steam.....
GG: Here are some Unitrack #6 turnout configurations for you. It also includes the double crossover. Go with the #6 turnout configurations..... Here are the #4 turnout configurations also using the double crossovers. Stay cool and run steam...
Thanks PSG: Ooops, Just saw your post: I'm not sure what you mean "two lead-in's the yard track". Don't put too much work into this as the final adjustments will be when I physicaly put the track down I will play with a few variations. Thanks for the diagrams. Where did you get them? Meaning where should I have looked and will find more? [ 25. November 2004, 18:31: Message edited by: Grey Gryphin ]
GG: These were taken from the N Scale supply site. These are the only two diagrams showing examples of each type of turnout in a yard. You can make two small ladder yards. One lead track for each yard. Stay cool and run steam.....
You know I was thinking the same thing about costs because I used to do ebay quite a bit and then I added in shipping and realized my deals weren't always deals. So yes I will probably just go local with this.
ok guys you convinced me of this, I stood around the hobbie shop and hemmed and hawwed over this purchase today, and now I own a K1 set and a truss bridge and some viaduct curves and peirs. All I can say is it took me long enough to come to the light but now I'm pretty pleased with what I see. By the end of tomorrow I should have a fully operational layout. (gotta buy some more track ) Very cool stuff.
TGB: Welcome to the Unitrack users group on Trainboard. You will run your railroad with no derailments and be free of track maintenance problems. If you need some help, you know where I am.. Stay cool and run steam on Unitrack.....
Thanks power steamguy. I can't wait to post pics of what i'm doing with it. I feel stupid now. Why did I wait so long? I've been eyeing that unitrack for years now. My layout already looks cool. I have a river crossing scene and all I did was buy a bridge and some piers and some viaduct track. Actually I know why I waited, all the model railroad mags act like it isn't worth doing unless its hard to do. Well I've learned differently now, this is so much fun I can't wait to buy more track and really go to town with this new layout. I can't believe how easy this stuff is! Thanks guys for leading a dying horse to water.
TGB: "I stood around the hobbie shop and hemmed and hawwed over this purchase" When I was at that point, I did not buy the K1 set. My poor trackwork problems could have been avoided. It's a great thing that Unitrack. Loco1999
TGB: I'm glad that you've been re-energized. If and when you make a permanent layout, You should use WS riser to make grades instead of the pier set. It can be easily done with the Unitrack... Stay cool and run steam on Unitrack....
"Important tip for Unitrack Users" If you need odd sizes of Unitrack, you can cut them from any regular curve or straight section with a razor saw. You then use regular rail joiners to attach the "cut" section" with any piece of Unitrack. By cutting individual sections to your needs, you can build any track plan. Stay cool and run steam.....
From a different thread: Multi level as in two decks or up an down hills? In either case what makes it easy with Unitrak? I am guessing it is how tightly it is joined makes it easyier to support?
GG: Multi-leveled as in long grades . The JJJ&E is multi-leveled with the top level about 7 1/2 inches above track at the lowest level. There aren't two decks as all the trackwork is connected. There is no level track on the JJJ&E. I take that back. The new turntable/engine facility addition I'm building now has all level track in the turntable area and also in the four track storage yard that is adjacent to the turntable. The railjoiners and track base allow you to do grades fairly easily. I found the Unitrack is easy to work with when you have elevations to work with. This is my opinion FWIW.... Stay cool and run steam...
