You'll love UniTrack. If you start using metric measurements, you'll find the Kato sizes are exact. The english equivalents are an approximation. The turnouts use only one coil because the armature is a permanent magnet, Therefore, a polarity reversal is required to operate them. A very reliable, zero-delay, inexpensive circuit called BCD (BiPolar Capacitor-Discharge) control can be used instead of the expensive and klunky Kato controllers. It uses a SPDT toggle (ordinary, not momentary) and a small capacitor per turnout. Costs about $3. Is simple to wire. LED indication can be added with 2 resistors and a bicolor LED, but the toggle handle indicates the position of the turnout in any event. The basic circuit can be viewed at: http://home.att.net/~grsjr/wsb/html/view.cgi-photo.html--SiteID-753342.html but the whole story including route-control is presented in the May and June issues of Mainline Modeler. There are about seven of us using this new circuit, some for over 3 years, with very satisfactory results. Ray Stilwell
If soldering to the track gives you problems, Kato sells Unijoiners with leads attached. They cost as much as the regular terminal track and thus are a real rip-off, but no track soldering is required to install feeders where ever you desire. On the other hand, learning to solder properly is a good thing to do. It will be a much used skill in the future. I'd recommend some learning and practice with ordinary wires first. Then tackle making your own terminal Unijoiners from ordinary Unijoiners. There is no need to solder to the UniTrack rail itself. The terminal Unijoiners work very well.
Came across this thread, and reposting some previously posted info about my in-progress Kato Unitrack ballasting project. It's slow going, no question about that. But in the end, the appearance improvement will be worth it to me. first posted in SNFF June 5, 2005: Hi, all, Thx to inspiration on this Forum and others, I've started experimenting with ballasting my Kato Unitrack layout. First up will be to experiment with the color/type of ballast. Santa Fe used a somewhat unique pinkish color in Northern Arizona - the following is my first attempt, using Arizona Rock and Mineral's approximation of that ballast. (the track and rail was painted first using my standard Roof Brown with a few drops of Grimy Black): (This was done using standard ballasting techniques, i.e. good soaking pre-wet of the ballast, followed by 50/50 Elmer's Glue/water mixture, both applied with eyedropper). I'll continue to play around with the color, with weathering it further, etc. For fun, here's last week's 'initial weathering project UP SD7' sitting on the ballasted track: (pardon the cRapido coupler which of course rather ruins the view!)
It did take some time to spread the layer evenly, even though this is my first shot at it, it took about 2 hours to do the 9" section shown. Now that I have some experience, I'd be able to do it faster, but it does take some time to do it right, not a job that can be rushed! My steps briefly were as follows, I did between the rails first, then the outside as a 2nd step. 1. Used a spoon to gently tap ballast into place. 2. Used a foam paint brush: to sweep the ballast down to the level of the ties. 3. Used an eyedropper to *gently* pre-soak the ballast well. As I used Arizona Rock and Mineral ballast (which I think is real rock and won't float away), water is enough. I carefully applied with the eyedropper to soak the ballast, dropped the water on the ties and let it run into the ballast (this prevents disturbing the ballast shape. I have heard that Woodland Scenics ballast, which apparently is lighter than water, really needs isoprophyl alcohol added to the pre-soaking water, otherwise the WS ballast 'floats' away. 4. Used a small screwdriver: to scrape the moist ballast as necessary off the sides of the rails and from the ties, where the foam paint brush couldn't get it off. 5. Then, apply 50/50 white glue/water mixture, carefully, again mostly to the ties and letting it run into the ballast. 6. As necessary, repeat process to fill in 'blanks' or spots where ballast disturbed during the above initial process 7. Allow to dry overnight.
SNFF 2005 July 3 I've started the ballasting of the Kato Unitrack on the Santa Fe Peavine Line. Here's what the N scale track ballast gang sees: Here's a little higher level view: It does take some time to do it right! So foot by foot, I'll slowly make my way around. Since the N scale 4' x 4' Santa Fe Peavine Line is portable, after a recent showing of the layout at the local NMRA divisional meet, I reversed the orientation of the layout at home, to facilitate working on the ballast and scenery from the other side. Here's the reverse angle view of the layout, different from what you may have seen before:
And here's where I am as of 7 24 05: still making my around the Kato Unitrack on my little 4 x 4 Santa Fe Peavine Line layout. Here I'm *very* carefully doing turnout, one very tiny section at a time, to make sure I don't glue it shut: Here's the progress, I've made my way all the way around the Prieta Grade module's cosmetic curve: Another angle: Hope all this helps. It's due to inspiration like this and other threads that I even started this project. (smile)
my painting/ballasting technique for UT is somewhat different. to paint rail and ties, I use a Marvy UCHIDA fine line DecoColor opaque paint marker. use 200-s dark brown color (the rust color is far too bright red) these are around $2 each, and my wife obtains them for me at Micheals paint the ties (inside and outside the rail) THEN paint the rail. Painting the rail will tear up the tip, so paint as many ties as possible BEFORE attacking the rails. ballasting.... first I lay on a layer of white glue on the outside slope of the UT and apply WS ballast (yes, it's foam and isn't as good as rock, but I've already bought a ton of it) I then seal the ballast with WS scenic glue. between the rails and ties I use a micro applicator to apply some WS scenic glue. A thin layer of ballast, then overspray with glue. scrape the top of the rails clean and your set to go. Or i should say this is my plan.... ahh vacation is but one shift away!! there sure are many different ways to scenic UT!! Ed Dillard
nice job guys. yep, unitrack costs a little more, but add in teh quailty, no roadbed, no ballast (unless you want to ) and the major time saved. it is worth it. I love atlast code 55 look, but I have older locos, rolling stock etc and want everythign to run smooth, so how can you beat unitrack. my wishes? a unitrack "Y" turnout and maybe some curved turnouts. plus more raius covers between the 28 and 19 to simulate flex track look.
Funny this just popped up again. I would say that if you are going to make a layout, you may as well start by doing some test sections. It's an early investment that will pay off later. So go out and buy a basic unitrack set. Even if you decide to go with other track types it makes a good test track. Try an oval of C55. Get some C80. It's worth it to figure it out for yourself. I really think alot of this stuff is such a personal choice. Some of us have a knack for laying perfect track. Some of us don't. By all means do what it takes to make this hobby fun.
Can you buy a few pieces of Unitrak and connect it to the Atlas track and see how you like the Unitrak? Say buy a pack of straight pieces and connect to my Atlas track to see the difference? Also. does Unitrak have a long straight section like the Atlas flex track? Ok, looked on some sites and might have to go get a Kato K1 set...geeezzzz
Yes you can. Kato has a piece of track that makes it possible to join unitrack to other types. It is called snap track conversion. Here is the part number 20-045. hope this helps.
actually, no conversion track needed. If you just pull the kato joiners off teh end track you can use atlas code 80 track and atlas joiners to connect up to kato track. I'm using 2 at last and one lifelike remote switch on my kato test loop. you can even use another piece of code 80 atlas track under the code 80 to equal the height of the kato with it's roadbed. I think I may use a combo of kato and atlas code 80 and maybe even a peco code 80 wye switch.
The longest straight section of Unitrack is 248mm or almost 10 inches. But with the ease they snap together and reliablility that hasn't been a problem for me. I picked up 8 turnouts and 50+ sections of track for about $50 several years ago just because it was a good deal. I had not used it till then and pretty much have not used anything else since. I remember sitting in awe as my trains ran through the turnouts time after time and NEVER derailed! At the time I didn't have much space and when I was done I could quickly take apart the sections and put them away. Definately worth a look! One thing to watch-when you put the sections together be sure that the rail goes INTO the rail joiner and not on top of it. I have had that happen a few times when not paying enough attention. The track does not operate as reliably in this condition Also if you don't have a good local supply I have had good experience with toytrainheaven.com as has been mentioned here before.
Pilotdude- Welcome to Trainboard. You already demonstrated a delvignius featurum usumiti (a Latin phrase meaning being able to search through old threads at Trainboard for instant resurrection.
You can connect Unitrack to Atlas track with a special connector track that Unitrack makes or you can use Unitrack and Atlas track with Atlas code 80 rail without the connector with some slight modifications. Stay cool and run steam.....
pilotDude; Welcome to the Trainboard. The JJJ&E is an all Unitrack layout, that was built over six years ago. It has over 125 feet of mainline track and is now undergoing a fourth expansion. The Unitrack is very reliable and as a user of DCC, is very user friendly. Stay cool and run steam.....
