Okay so I got the Atlas/ Tomix track cleaning car and it works great. One question I had was what is the difference between having it in the on position versus the CL position other than what the directions state that it should be in the CL position if operated slowly. we operated the car with an ER shark which moved slowly but was still drawing 10 volts. Isthe CL posiotion a way to keep the vacuum motor turning fast when using minimum power?
Here are the instructions: I don't see any explanation of the settings other than the speed at which it is run. I have been using the "on" setting for vacuuming. I may have used the CL setting the one time I used it with track cleaning fluid. The fluid is used up so quickly it is easier for me to apply the cleaning fluid by hand using a coffee filter. This method also allows me to clean the insides of the rails, as important as cleaning the rail tops. Ben
Hi Guys, I didn't notice any difference using the switch in either position.....I have since "upgraded" mine to DCC with a decoder, this way I DO have control of the vacuum motor speed even at slow speed. I think this is a great track cleaning car however you use it! (I do keep an eye dropper handy for refilling).
This is the primary reason I was going to get one. I presume it works well for this purpose on your layout? Thanks. Thanks for the instructions, too. That is very helpful.
I think it vacuums very well. There is more "stuff" in the vacuum receptacle than I would have imagined after using it. Ben
So it sounds like you guys are pleased with this car. Does that mean it is worth getting? Also, how hard is it to convert to DCC?
I have this cleaner and I don't like it for cleaning the track. I have not tried the vacuum part. As stated earlier in this thread, the cleaner fluid is used up very quickly (w/n about 25'). It just more or less runs out onto a 'sponge'. After using the car in wet cleaner mode, I wiped the tracks with a coffee filter wet with cleaner fluid. The filter was BLACK with crud. Also, the cloth disc was worn out after two passes (about 50'). I'm going to try the Aztec cleaner.
Blaine Bachman has been importing decoders specifically for these cars and then distributing them to people on the ndcc yahoo group list for the current price plus some postage and a padded envelope. They've been running $28-30 delivered, which isn't bad, and they are actually made for this car, so you don't have to put the decoder in where the dirt goes. I have been thinking about getting a decoder. Adam
Anyone know if these drop in decoders are motor only function or do they have any outputs for other functions?
I use the Centerline track cleaning car with orange stuff as cleaning fluid. I really like it. Simple, economical, and effective. (I realize it doesn't look like a real car, but neither do the other track cleaning cars!)
I use the Aztec cleaning car at this time and I like them, too. I hope to use the Atlas car for the vacuum function.
The vacuum works well. You can hear when a loose piece of ballast gets picked up. Bounces around the inside. When I ussed the track cleaning function,it went through the liquid cleaner very fast. Overall,it works good.
If you're running DCC at N-Scale voltages (I use 11.6 volts), it really doesn't need a decoder, but it does just run when you place it on the track. I've had trouble with the vacuum setup stalling on even tiny pieces of grit or foam. Maybe that's because there's a lot of tiny bits of stuff on my layout? In my consist, I use the Atlas car in vacuum mode first, then the CMC Clean Machine for liquids, followed by a Centerline car, followed by a second Atlas car in buffing, not sanding, mode. I also have a Roco pad-type car sometimes inserted in the consist, which is pulled by ABBA IM F-3s. I keep the 91% isopropyl alcohol handy, along with a calbrated syringe. I've had problems with the electrical pickup of both Atlas cars. If I've been working on scenery by the tracks, I use a Bright Boy first, often mounted on a stick with duct tape. Track cleaning hasn't been a huge problem, as my train room is pretty sealed off from the dust of Albuquerque. But it takes a watchful eye to clean 650 feet of mainline, and about 250 feet of sidings. The CMC car, in my experience, it very difficult to adjust. It's touchy-feely to get the correct drip rate. The Atlas cars just have too small a reservoir. I sometimes use acetone, with proper ventilation.
Converting to DCC is easy. Not only is there a drop in board, but adding a hard-wired board is really easy. Here is how to add a TCS M-1 decoder. Click the link for a PDF file. http://www.tcsdcc.com/decoderpics/N_Atlas_Trackcar_M1.pdf
Is everyone using a unimate coupler for the conversion from rapido couplers? Medium or long shank? I am going to try that today.
I just cut off the truck mounted coupler and added a 1015 to the body. I found the body to be at the perfect height for the coupler and the when mounted the coupler was exactly where it should be.
Interesting. In a fit of competence, I checked the Micro Trains website. The recommendation was, "Keep the coupler setup and use a car with MTL and Rapido on opposite sides to pull it when necessary." I like mavrick0's solution better. I may try it with a 1025. I presume the Atlas cleaning car frame is plastic at the ends. Thanks, mavrick0.
