Hi all, Still no SW1000 at the horizon, so I am trying to build a SW1000 shell out of styrene .... I could use some advice how to chop a MTL GP chassis, just in case I am able to finish the shell. I know a coulpe of you did already shrink a GP chassis. What would be the easiest approach: shortening on one side and give up one powered truck or shortening on both side with both trucks powered but no flying wheels?:question:
Frank, WOW you made really great progress so far! I thought MTL was to release a SW1000 in the future? I would definitely talk with Gerd about chopping an MTL GP chassis since he has created a EMD MP15DC which I think is in the SW1000 family. Yours, John
David K Smith at one time had a series of pictures on the James River Branch showing how to shorten the Geep chassis for MP15. I have done one to power an F7B and it is pretty straight forward . If you can not find the info on James River Branch I can post a photo of my shortened chassis. here is the link http://jamesriverbranch.net/project_28.htm
Frank, that was my source, the great work David Smith did some years ago: http://jamesriverbranch.net/project_28.htm But you have to mill the chassis thinner too to have a prototypical narrow hood and no "fat" GP9/GP35 style. Just an advise: I wouldn't approach the chassis kitbash without a mill, it has to be very accurate to work. Looks impressive what you do in styrene!
Thank you for the link to Davids's info! I kwew it was out there somewhere. Gerd, I'll will have to do with the juweler saw..... My biggest concern is the relocation of the worm gears. Hood wall thickness is just 0.25 mm and another 0.25 mm for the doors. The total impresion has to be right (modelers licence!).
When I did mine (ala David Smith's plan) I had to leave off both flywheels. If you have a motor with metal shafts you're better off. In fact I'd wait until you have one. The worms get relocated directly onto the ends of the motor shafts. The "previous" MTL motors with ceramic shafts once (easily) broken are then completely worthless.
Ah, but if there is still one good shaft it can be used elsewhere. Seriously if anyone has one of those motors with a broken shaft I'll buy it.
All, Thanks for the info and wise words. First I will continue with the shell. The shell must look right before I start on the chassis.
Just my 2 cents! Your project is in keeping with other modelers who have created unique, superb and highly detailed shells in the past. Only a select few have attempted such which puts you in that category. Please keep in mind that what you are creating in styrene is beyond delicate. I challenge you to go one step further with this project. Learn the in's and out's of RTV mold making and Resin casting!!!! As you make your styrene shell, make it as a master. Never paint or primer it. I am talking from experience here. In early 2004 I created a styrene PS2 rib side covered hopper in z scale. I painted it and regretted it! The desire by others to have one had me learn molding, casting, and etching (which also require some CAD knowledge) I FAILED a second time when I styrene'd a Mi-Jack container crane. Since the PS2Mi-Jack I now make anything in styrene to be possibly molded and cast in resins. Styrene Masters can be copied. Take David's SD70ACe project. The first got painted so he used the second as a master and it was molded and resin copies produced. Only problem with resin is slight shrinkage!!! Build it 3-5% bigger to allow for shrinkage! This is all me giving my 2 cents. Your project is amaZing, please continue to post photos of it!!!! They are motivators for me to get my dead arse moving again!!! LOL Hobo Tim
hi Tim, Good information, especially regarding the shrinking of resin. I have been studying etching in the internet. I am familiar with pcb etching. I have saved the pictures of your sd7ACe casting project. I have studied the pics several times.... I'll guess this will eventually become a next enrichment of my z-scale hoby.
Ask and you shall receive!!! Several years ago a forum member started a thread on etching brass. Here is the link. I am sure you will find alot of information in it. http://www.trainboard.com/grapevine/showthread.php?92595-Photo-Etching-Brass Hobo Tim
Frank, in my opinion don't waste your time on etching. I did it and it was a waste. Do the propper artwork and let some pro do it, much more satisfying. And I wouldn't use brass, nickel-silver is more durable.
Custom etching firms? My most sincere apologies, I'm one heck of a great lurker here on this list and furthermore this is a tangent from the topic but can you recommend a firm that would do very small etching projects? I'd like to give custom etching a try but would only need a small sheet to try out and most firms I'd found wanted larger production runs. Thanks Chris Mears Prince Edward Island, Canada princestreet.wordpress.com
Gerd, you may think learning to etch at home is a waste of time, but I have found the ability of etching yourself can prove to be an asset in checking your artwork before sending it to a professional etcher. I don't know about where you get your etchings done but I have to pay more than $230(tooling) plus about another $250(minimal sheet quantity) to see if the artwork I created works. If it is not good I need to make corrections then spend that same amount for new etchings. The sheets of bad etchings are only worth their weight in metal. I found out the hard way nickel silver has ZERO silver in it. The word nickel silver is an oxymoron. So, by being able to home etch my artwork is definitley a plus, waste of time or not, it's an asset in knowledge. Example; I home etched the Maxi IV artwork to find I needed to make changes to several areas of the artwork then a new etch of the revised artwork proved to be a success. At that time I sent the artwork to the pro etcher. For those wanting to learn a new skill, home etching is a great skill to acquire! Hobo Tim
Tim, You should check out PPD next time. They have no size limit and from what I hear pretty good prices. I've used them a few times now. http://www.ppdltd.com/ BTW I bought my first etching kit once Tim showed it to me on sale. I've had tons of use out of it.
That's exactly my supplier. Small orders no problem, good prices and they review my designs and tell me what to change (free of charge) or you can pay them to correct your artist work. So no waist. Therefore for me is no benefit in home etching at all. If people enjoy the process that's a different story, but if you need etching only as "tool" for your project talk to PPD. Tim, did you expect to have a small treasure at home with nickel-silver etchings? It's just a copper, nickel and zinc alloy with silver appearance which is more durable than brass and with the same good soldering abilities.
Dear all, See some progress.... fire man side is nearly done. notice the partly opened cab windows. The engineers side is still blank. See also: https://picasaweb.google.com/108766...&authkey=Gv1sRgCNC9qMeI7ZnReg&feat=directlink
