I have a question for you guys. How do you handle your geeps. I used to grab it by the dynamic brake, but if you do it too often the paint comes off. My currently I grab the geep by cab, but if I use the cab shades, then I lose that spot.
I grab from the sides along the walkways, but with the new air line I installed on my DT&I geep I can't do that... so I reach for the trucks... Of course, now that I've got the speedometer cable installed, and brake cylinders to follow, that won't be an option... And since I removed the dynamic brakes that's out... though I can grasp along the long hood where they were. Otherwise it's going to be back to the side sills either fore or aft of the fuel tank... That is until (and if) I replace the handrails with brass wire... Darn, I may not be able to pick up my DT&I at all at this rate... Adam
Yeah, the paint is coming off my GP too! I did some touchup and then sealed with some more flat finish. -Robert
Adam, You have lifting hooks. Maybe you need to build a lift for your engine. The problem of adding detail is that it makes your engine so hard to handle.
Hmmmm... A shop scene in Z scale. I know a guy who did a superdetailed one in HO... The only thing I can really say about this, guys, is to keep your hands clean when handling your engines. Oil on your fingers is what takes the paint off. Adam
I grab mine by the fuel tank. I do agree, it is not easy to find an area to grab, and I'll second the notion about keeping fingers glean. The slightest bit of oil does indeed seem to make paint flake off.
I have some coming, to be converted to 30's, and custom painted. Any surface to be painted needs to be scrupulously clean. I have exam gloves on when I paint. No chance of contamination that way. I also wash my hands with soap & water after donning gloves, to remove any dust or talc from the. This helps greatly. Just my 2/100's of a dollar..
I have also found sealing the finished piece like Robert suggests really helps. I use Testors Dullcoat on almost all of my painted models. They also have a gloss coat depending on your finish. Rob
Thank You for your response. In fact, I will use all your advice. I quess the solution is not to do one thing, but to do all the thing you guys suggested.
John, Why the F59PHI in CSX scheme? One of FR's F40PH's I could understand since they had them for the business trains. Randy
Money, I have a extra F59. If I buy one of FR F40's in Amtrack colors, It would be used to run Amtrack cars.
John, thank you for the advice. I'm now in contact with Dave and you can see the results soon here on the Trainboard. Regards Jürg
Here's a little info on BN's rebuilt GP39M/E/V: The E meant it was rebuilt by EMD, V is VMV Enterprises, and M stands for Morrison-Kundsen. All of the GP30's and GP35 retained there EMD 567 blocks but were rebuilt with 645 components. By the way I love this Z scale stuff, I do not own any as I am way to set in N but mabey I can justify something with the commitie (wife). Kevin D Mumaw
Kevin, thanks for clearing up the issue of GP39e prime mover. Just get infected. sorrry. I mean invest in a MTL started set, and you will store the N scale stuff like Robert.
I still have one more GP35 to do in BN, a Torpedo Tube unit as aquired from Frisco: This one was rebuilt into a GP39-E in 1990, and they took the roof mounted air tanks off, but I really like the Torpedo Tubes, so i have to have one. -Robert
Nice! Never knew the TT Geeps also included 35's... On a side note, what service were BN's rebuilt 30's used in? Would stack trains have been on that list?
I have seen pics of BN's rebuilt GP's used for coal, stacks, locals, ect. When BN was power short they could bee seen anywhere on anything. As for the ex-NW GP30's they were all high hood units and when they were rebuilt they recived the chop nose's and spartan cabs. Kevin D Mumaw
