Joe, Would you please describe your window shade making technique? The ones that you made look great.
What's on my workbench tonite..... Hi guys, This is my first response to this thread so here goes I have just finished 2 x American Limited Sand Towers and they were one of those kits that you really enjoy building. Everything went together as planned - only suggestion I'm gonna make is to install the sand pipe before you fit the handrail. Also don't try & drill a hole in the base for a mounting pin, cos you might snag the etched ladder & distort it beyond recognition!! A couple of pics below showing both towers that I weathered to varying degrees. First sprayed with Tamiya Gloss Aluminium (can) then oversprayed Floquil CN Grey & then weathered with oils / chalks I can't recommend these enough & I'm ordering another to complete my loco servicing I heard that AL are also doing some Snyder Fuel cranes in N (same as they do in HO, cool eh?) While I had my weathering stuff out, I also decided to give a few covered hoppers a bit of a dust up. Couple of pics of my IMRC SSW hopper below + the proto pic I used for reference. Again I used my oils to create the rust spots / streaks Thanks guys happy modelling Steve
Steve: Good weathering. Nice rust spots. I still can't seem to get those right. I can "smear" and "blanket" okay, but rust spots give me trouble. How do you like that Tamiya spray can paint? I have only seen it in a bottle.
Thanx for the feedback Flash, I hear your pain re duplicating rust spots in N scale and am reasonably happy with the results I've been getting Up until about a year ago I was strictly an acrylic paint kind of guy for all my weathering & was getting overscale / unrealistic effects. I changed my way of thinking after I read Tom Manns book on Weathering (I got my copy from Chuck @ Feather River TS) Tom explains who he uses Windsor & Newton oil colours to do his rust effects. I haven't got it down right yet but think I'm heading in the right direction I guess a big difference is now I use a toothpick to apply rust spots / when I used to used a brush! Less is more works well sometimes eh? The Tamiya Spray cans we get here work fine - not sure what's available in the US. I usually soak the can in hot water first to thin the paint. Thanks Stevebiggrin:
I thought that I would add my projects. I am in the process of adding a lenz decoder to a LifeLike NKP Berkshire using the John Colombo method. As you can see by the photos I have it disassembled and grinding the shell for a passage for the wiring. After finishing this, hopefully today, I will begin adding a Tsunami sound decoder to the tender. That requires making a lead enclosure for the speaker. I did one last year and have really enjoyed the sound. So after nearly a year of working on layout (more on that later) and playing outside all summer here in the San Juan mountains of Colorado and Ridgway, the home of the Galloping Goose, I am back at it. Future projects include installing a decoder in a Kato Mikado and then adding all of the details for the Mike, hopefully without the dreaded flying pieces that I have read that others have been plagued by.
Not if you are modeling the 'Grande! I finally got those Con Cor fuel foilers finished up and off the workbench. Mike
The mess persists..... This weekend had a little HO in the way. A building from various Walthers modular parts to represent a heavy equipment repair shop. It is going here on the layout.... Also, not pictured is slowest curring silicone mold in the world. I am making a copy of the MT RPO so I have some parts to cut up and re-arrange windows.
Building 2 SP&S wood cabooses. SP&S #43 and one I've never tried yet SP&S #760. all windows have been plugged, a straight bottom sill has been added, roof has been sanded abd both cars scribbed. Now to add all the new windows................
Waiting for my CMR St.Paul Bldg to build itself so I can get started on my Galt Tower. Was working on a Downtown Deco kit but have shelved it for the time being.
New Hampshire Northcoast GP9. The engine is in the midle of painting. Decals are from Concord Car Shops.
These engines always ran in pairs so here is the second unit. This is an older paint scheme without the large logo and safety stripes. This is also a work in progress. These models use only currently available details. The plows are from Walthers GP38-2s. The hood bells are from an Atlas SD24. The 5 chime airhorns on 1758 are from a Life-Like F40PH while the three chime directional horns on 1757 were built from the two part horns on the Atlas GP9. I had to remove the brake rachet from 1758 to keep the decals from deforming. This will be replaced by the rachet from an Atlas SD35.
I'm starting on gathering information and materials for a SF30C master. Brian, if you're out there, I could really use some of your shells.
I've started working on a few structures for my Los Angeles Junction railway.. Still doing NG stuff on the side, but I'd like to build a heavy, urban switching layout as well. First structure is the Vernon team track freight dock. I wanted it to handle 3 cars of regular or extra height for incoming freight transfers. The team track area is a busy spot for the LAJ. The shed is on the BNSF, but I'm going to apply the modelers license to include it and the overhead crane. Here's a link to the Bing map for this area... http://www.bing.com/maps/?v=2&cp=pnzn9q54f7ht&scene=7002468&lvl=2&sty=b Alot more work to come.
Do you man these were smooth sided cars and you scribed the wooden sides? Heck of a job. Nice on filling the windows, too.:thumbs_up:
