Finally. Something to post! This is an HO Tyco GP-20 I picked up at a LHS from the parts bin for $7. It's my first attempt at a repaint/detail. Before: After: If you look closely at the side, you can see the remains of what I believe was the Durango paint scheme. There were at least TWO different UP paint schemes over top of whatever that original scheme was. Anyway, next up is filling in the pilots, adding a few basic details, and painting it up in my CH&FR livery:
What a guy. If your workbench is where the layout is you likely don't remember what is on it since you last visited. To cold. My main focus currently is building a 6' double track module for the freemoN club. I am building four ballasted deck and two double track girder bridges. I finaly was able to get a hot knife and cut a dry riverbed (Santa Anna River) for the module. I soldered much of the track together but am waiting for some spacing tools the club ordered to better ensure track alignment before gluing anything down. I have all the scenery supplies but still need abutments and will likely scratchbuild them. I also have a BLMA cantilevered signal to put together and paint to. This module is inspired by the trackage just south of the diamonds in Colton CA along La Cadena. My version is slightly smaller but I will include the crossovers and both cantilevered signals. The plan is to build the next module working toward the diamond and eventually the diamond itself with the era based in the early '70's or late '60's. If anyone out there has seen the Nland Pacific freemo club before the next show (Big Train Show in Ontario on June 5 & 6) should prove much more interesting as we have introduced a double track recommened practice and will have many new modules. More trains than ever running with more passing sidings and some crossovers. Now if I could only get my module up and running.
What is on the workbench........ A Kato Mikado needing the decoder replaced. A Kato GS-4 half way through a sound install. A Trix 2-10-0 in process of updating and remotoring. and Piles of other junk that was displaced from my layout benchwork which finally is serving a purpose besides holding up that junk.
I've been away for awhile and missed this. Mark, I love what you've done with the pastel chalks--but what is "workable fixative"?
Chaya, There are two types of fixative, permanent and workable. Permanent is an acrylic (like Krylon) that forms a hard coat in and on top of the chalk, which makes reworking or blending rather difficult. Workable fixative likewise "fixes" the chalk, but has a soft surface with some "grip" which allows the artist to continue working on the artwork. Permanent comes in gloss, semi-gloss, and matte; workable is usually matte. The latter allows you to layer your work while also allowing limited mixing with a previous layer (depending on the chalk's hardness/softness and the amount of pressure applied). I use workable fixative when chalking cars, and permanent when I need to overspray decals.
Thanks, Pete. It sounds like great stuff...but do you know how I could find something like this? Go to an art store and ask for "workable fixative" maybe?
Yes, any art store worth their salt should have a workable fixative product. It can also be had at many hobbies and craft stores. My first experience with it was for charcoal drawings. After each session the drawing would get a coat of workable fix so that when transported, nothing is erased or wiped because of something rubbing against it. Then when it was time for the next session, if I needed to go back and erase something from before, I was still possible to erase through the fix with a careful amount of pressure.
GHQ Kenworth Bulldog and two GHQ loboy trailers. I think I have made a mistake to not seal these GHQ models with a clear coat. The paint will rub off of the pewter. Doesn't seem to matter if it is primed or not.
Just got done weathering this Exactrail AT&SF hopper using the proto pic for reference. I'm pretty happy with how it turned out & also that I was able to resist the urge to "overdo" the weathering as I have done in the past. wink: I chopped the truck mounted couplers off & body mounted some MT # 905 (Zscale) couplers
Well after I spent the morning playing with my new Digitrax Sound Decoder I decided its time to play with my other newest toy, a GHQ Model A Pick-up! Here are the parts straight out of the package And cleaned up, ready for assembly: This one is going to belong to the owner of Delphos Grocery, one of the computer-aided scratch builds I made. Mr. Delphos will be seen each morning driving his Model A down to Handover Freight Depot, another scratch build, where he will pick up crates of fresh fruit from the daily shipment from the land of fruit. This is an old one of Delphos Grocery on the left: And Handover Freight:
Well the assembly went smoothly! The only trouble I ran into was the final part, the headlight bar. I broke the first attempt, and subsequently snapped off the two front wheels. But that proved to be beneficial as the first attempt at the front wheels was less than desirable. So I re-attached them more precisely, then cut out the spare headlight bar (thank god for manufacturers including spare parts!!). I finally got it in place and here she is ready for paint! This was one of the funnest builds I've done in a long time! Lets hope paint goes just as smoothly (I hate painting, so that will be the real challenge). Anyways, here are my two build photos!
These pewter GHQ-type autos and trucks with individual wheels lend themselves to having the front wheels "pointed" in a direction as if they were in a turn or next to a curb. Just something I like to do to give some variation. I know this one is small in N scale. Looks good! :thumbs_up:
So now that the GP39E is done I need to find something to work on while out in LA next week. I've been looking at the ConCor Bi-Levels I bought since they don't have interiors. I pulled open the Cab car and started tinkering. I'll post pics in the morning. I'm using L and I stock for chairs.
