Hi all, See the work in progress of my latest caboose...... It is still far from complete, but eventually it should look like a UP CA3 more or less. Build from Evergreen styrene.
I will keep you updated regarding progress... John, the steps are made out of square evergreen strips (.060x.060" /1.5x1.5mm). First I glue two pieces (of approxomately 4mm length) together. When the joint is strong enough this assembly is glued to the car chassis. Eventually the sanded / filed to the right width. Afterwards the side plates are glued on and shaped with a file. Next might help to clarify.
Very nice! Plastruct makes a number of different sizes of stair stock in their range that makes these steps much easier to do. A few of them are v-formed so you get the backside detail and others are injection molded out of styrene. Give it a look. Joe
....the roof is closed now. ....the roof is closed now. The front and rear roof should get the same detailing as the cupola roof.
The sides are just 0.5 mm thick styrene sheet. The rivits are punched with a needle from the backside while the sheet is in a some what soft surface (e.g. a newspaper)
Another, even quicker and very accurate way to make rivets on thin styrene or brass is to sharpen a very fine steel gear, fit it over a shaft, so it rolls nicely, than build a tool like a small pizza cutter with a flat guide surface, so it can be accurately guided by a ruler.
Too Cool!!! That is a great idea for a rivot roller. I'm gonna have to make me one or two of them!!! On the Caboose!!! WOW!!!!!!!! It's too bad the sides are so thin or you could probably make a RTV mold of it and cast many upon many of these cabeese for your pleasure and others!!!! Praise goes out for the Scratchbuilders!!!! Hobo Tim
When I used this technic (back in the N-scale years, around 1970), I built my cars from a solid acrylic block, drilled for ligths, etc, then added the details in layers. I didn't even cut the windows, just filled in the space between the horizontal runs with styrene strips or larger pieces as needed. That was very quick and accurate. You can substitute the acrylic block with a clear styrene or some other type of plastic rigid box. Before painting I just lightly oiled the windows.
Sounds like you're describing a pounce tool, Lajos. But I don't know if their points on the wheel are spaced good for this work. Frank, what was the spacing you used? -James
One thing is 100% sure, that tool didn't exist in the communist Hungary in 1970. I made my tool using a gear with very fine teeth from a "quality" dead watch made by the Soviet.
Good idea with the old gear Lajos! James, rivet spacing on my caboose is approximately 0.5 mm / .0196"
