Can't wait to see it painted :thumbs_up: Frank after your done with it I could use a Flanger if your up to it should be easy to do with your skills.........
Thanks for the picture, could be an interesting scratchbuilding project. I still have to add more details, like grab irons, before I can paint. And most important, I have to lear painting....just bought myself an Badger 150 airbrush to get started. This CA3 caboose has eventually more details than my previous DRGW cabeese and gons. By now I have a couple of items which wait for some paint, besides the CA3.. DRGW GP35, SW1 and a center beam. I cannot not promise anything regarding building on demand, the way I build takes a log time, patience is th e most important tool......but it is a great hobby. And in Z it does not take much Evergreen styrene to build. Why don't you try it your self? Study how an MTL/AZL freight car looks, how the trucks are attached, study all pictures you can get from the internet. Or start with scratch building buildings, this way you can learn working with styrene. BTW ......a lot of my scratchbuild attempts end up in the waste bin...
Mike , See next link I found, it is not Zscale ... but challenging for Z scratchbuilding : http://www.freerails.com/view_topic.php?id=3163&forum_id=5&jump_to=36484
...there are colors on it, no doubt about that... ...there are colors on it, no doubt about that...but there there is still a lot to learn... First I practiced on an old first scratch build trial caboose. And afterwards I airbrushed my CA3 completely yellow. So far so good. A week later, I masked the yellow to be able to airbrush the roof. No problem....untill I removed the masking tape.... patches of yellow paint including primer came off and I had to fix it by handpainting. Well modeling is an ongoig learning curve, so will finish this one, learn more from it and eventually start with a new one from scratch... :tb-wacky:
Frank, what masking tape did you use? Tamiya is the best in my opinion. Another hint: let the masking tape stick only as log as I needs to be on the model, I always remove it when the paint is semi-dry, so you get really sharp edges and the glue of the masking tape in not getting bonded with the paint. As a preparation I always wash plastic models with dishwasher detergent and rinse with fresh water. Especially the Evergreen stuff feels always a bit "greasy", there is some residue left from the extrusion process at manufacturing that limits the paint adhesion. Metal/etched stuff I even sandblast to get a good surface for painting. Hope that helps (next time...)
Hi Gerd, Thanks for the tips, much appriciated! I did use Scotch tape (the office stuff), it worked fine for the coppula but not for the caboose body :-( I will get myself the Tamiya tape. Well the real cabees didn't look mint in the late 70ties. I'll guess that some weathering might cover up the mistakes for this one. For soldered brass and new silver constructions (e.g. track), I always wash those with a toothbrush and vinnegar. Had no problems there sofar. How about masking applied decals? That might be tricky too...
Great job!! Don't try and mask over decals, it won't work...trust me. Tamaya tape is the best, blue painters tape is great as well...less tack. If you must mask over a decal, seal it with several coats of clear. Then take notebook paper and wet it and lay it on the decal and blot away the water. You have to work quickly before the paper dries, but I've used this methiod from time to time in my professional work. Cheers Joe MTL
I did two of these flangers for Jerg (what ever happened to him?) a few years ago. Laser cut out of acrylic. I'll see if I can find the photo's. Joe MTL
Thanks for the masking tip, Joe! I might need that when I finally confident with my airbrush to paint my DRGW 3045 GP35. I can recall having seen the under construction DRGW gp 35 pic from your former site. Where you did apply the decals on the yellow body and airbrushed it black arround it afterwards. I always wonderd how you did this, but now I know. Sofar I did use these kind of negative decals also on my scratch build gondolas, but these were hand painted.
I have just started with the last details for my CA4 caboose. Had the first hole (0,25 mm) drilled for the ladder.... and ran out of drils....
I was able to patch up the damaged yellow paint very well... now I still have to build ladders and install running grids and couplers...maybe some more weathering..
Alex, these are slightly modified MTL 004 02 040 904 Z black - Passenger Car Trucks (w/o Coupler). These came the most close to the original CA3/4 trucks, I couln't find nowadays UP caboose trucks.
