Not too bad. The red seems thicker than the yellow, but the best guage would be the handrails. I think you can get paint too thick with an airbrush, but you have to keep applying it. With a spray paint can, one spray and it is over!! Back to the stripping barn! In summary, I think this looks fine. White safety appliances, weathering, pictures posted on RailImages and WNFF, and you are moving on to do the next one better! Life is good!! Is this a kit or an undec/stripped?
Thanks for the feedback and ideas. It was an atlas undec. I will dullcote and dirty it. Practice, Practice, Practice. Loco1999
Dullcote is unnecessary for weathering if you use water based paint and keep the air brush back about 6" when you apply the base "dirt" spray. The paint, drying on the way to the model, will "orange peel" or leave a rough surface, just like dullcote. I always thought that dullcote leaves a "fat" surface behind, filling in some detail sharpness... Tony Burzio San Diego, CA
Loco1999: The caboose looks good to me. When I first saw the photo, I thought the red roof was abit heavy but it isn't an issue. Stay cool and run steam....
I need a dull coat over the decals. ( I thought. ) I would use PollyScale clear flat finish. Thanks Guys. I will Practice.... Loco1999
I do use dullcote, but I use it less and less as I weather more cars. As an aside, since we have mentioned flat finishes, IMHO, the modelflex flat leaves a white sheen. If you use modelflex, I recommend you use satin finish. Works well with a very light coat. Jason of TB has ideas on this, too.
No. What you do need to do is first hit it with a clear finish before you put the decals on, to match reflectivity with the decal. Once you do that, you can weather it like any really shiny surface, which is an "orange peeled" overspray of "dirt" to change the underlying color to "weathered". Tony Burzio San Diego, CA
I'm gonna have to disagree with that! ALWAYS put a clear coat on after decaling to seal the decals. Then I weather to my likin'. I use Floquil Flat Finish over everything, including ModelFlex and have never had a problem. I like the sheen that it gives and I believe, the finished product benefits from it. I've been doing this way too many years so I may be set in my ways. I've given clinics at NMRA meets, and a few other places, on painting and this is the most accepted method. Again, ALWAYS put on a clear coat after decaling!
Also, I forgot to mention...by shooting clear over the decals, it helps to blend the decal into the surface by giving the outside of the decal the same finish as the paint on the shell. It is better, for me, to get the best out of a paint and decal job that I can before I apply weathering. That way the weathering can be applied as little or as much as wanted without trying to hide anything. But like everything else, whatever floats your boat!
Thanks for the info. Gloss before decals. Flat after decals. I'm going to try it like that for a while. Thanks, Loco1999
Hmmm, haven't lost any decals yet, even though I weather right over the decals. Of course, the weathering counts as a sealant too, so perhaps we are not so different after all... Tony Burzio San Diego, CA
Hi Tony - I have seen some models where the weathering colors have bled underneath the decals making the film really stand out. I'm glad this has not happened to you. After seeing that, I knew that would be one step that I would not do without. Can we see some of your painting and weathering? Thanks!
