T-TRAK FOR Z

cely Jun 6, 2011

  1. cely

    cely Permanently dispatched

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    Thanks SJ Z-Man

    I am now officially on overload.

    I've been away from model railroading for over 25 years. I feel like Rip Van Winkle who woke up after a 25 year sleep.

    This is what I've observed. The quality of the smaller scales has improved dramatically and will continue to improve. DCC is where the future is. I'm waiting for the conductor on a passenger train to say "All Aboard".

    Like I said earlier, it you have fun with T-TRAK N, you will have fun with T-TRAK Z and eventually T-TRAK T.
     
  2. cely

    cely Permanently dispatched

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    I couldn't help myself.
     

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  3. Garth-H

    Garth-H TrainBoard Supporter

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    Cely Those are great and will make a very nice base to build on.
     
  4. wunlwunt 220

    wunlwunt 220 TrainBoard Member

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    Foam on top - excellent idea

    I have built 4 Z-Bend track modules and even showed them at the state (Western Australia) model railway exhibition years ago, and on the weekend just gone was the 2011 exhibition which filled two halls. At the latest show i saw first hand for the first time T-track N and was quite impressed with the concept, but it has the same drawback as Z-bend track in that everthing is flat. This is not a criticism, just my personal obsevation and preference. I am building a shelf layout in Z which will be built on 5cm ( 2 inches) of foam to allow rolling scenery, and as i am never likely to have the chance to add any modular system of mine to anybody elses i will be building a mish mash of Z-bend and T-track Z modules with the same, or close to, height of foam. I also will do the same thing in N gauge as a modular system allows one to be able to try different combinations without having to de-construct an existing layout.
    I am not much into shunting, i have done enough over the years in 1/1 scale, but i do want to be able to run 70 to 100 wagons per train on a Z scale layout (fixed or modular) as that is what really "floats my boat".
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 8, 2011
  5. cely

    cely Permanently dispatched

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    Foam-On-Plank Modules

    I too am using foam because where I grew up was rolling prarie. Nothing was flat...but no mountains either. And I never been able to cut anything square and true.

    The foam is 2" thick DOW Scoreboard 25 PSI. The base is 1/4" MDF routed on a CNC router. The leveling hardware is 10x24 Propell nuts installed with Gorilla glue and 10x24 screws. I made my own hot-wire-foam cutter to cut the foam flush and perpendicular to the edge of the base.

    How do you make your foam modules?

    The picture is two Single Wides.
     

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  6. Gandy131

    Gandy131 New Member

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    When MTL first came out with the sectional track, I thought it would be a great thing for use with Ttrak Z modules. I build my first Trak Z module back in 2005-06. I was finished in time for the National Train show in Philadelphia. There were 2 Ttrak Z layouts at that show mine and one build by Lee Monaco-Fitzgerald. The 220mm radius was not out yet so lee did not complete the outer loop (it was a beautiful layout. On my modules, I used Marklin flex track for the outer loop.

    The layout consisted of 4 corner modules, and 4 short modules. I enjoyed making them but I did learn some lessons.

    1. Use of short modules (using 2 sections of MTL track) added to the frustration of putting the modules together. Conclusion: Modules made up of 4 sections of track made for better area for scenery and less problems with connections.

    2. Modules are difficult to level and thereby making track connections difficult. Conclusion: Drill the hole for the legs straight thru the module, notch the end of the Leveler (bolt) to allow for height adjustment from above with a thin flat balde screwdriver.

    3. Over a period of time, it becomes harder and harder to connect the rails using the rail joiners. Wear and tear is hard on the joiners and thereby making electrical continuity more difficult as time goes by. Conclusion: Use under module electrical connections. I have to agree with BHill Kronenburger when he said that "all modules need electrical connections under the modules." This is truer with MTL Z Scale sectional track. I build a carrying case to put all my modules in and they still got the rail joiners damaged. I solved the connection problem by removing the rail joiners and using only the plastic joiners to connect the track. The under module wiring and the corner levelers did the trick.

    The under module electrical connectors (I now use Power Pole Connectors) and the ability to adjust the levelers from the top, have made for a mush less stressful setup.

    I have not seen any other Ttrak Z modules at any of the shows I have attended since Philadelphia so I am unable to comment on the status of Ttrak Z but I hope there are others that have made modules and may have additional comments of the subject.
     
  7. cely

    cely Permanently dispatched

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    A Dead Horse?

    I've hear you. Your experience seems to be the norm. My premise has always been "If you had fun with T-TRAK N, then you should be able to have fun with T-TRAK Z". I think I'll have to give up on that idea.
     
  8. wunlwunt 220

    wunlwunt 220 TrainBoard Member

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    Still planning

    Goodaye Cely,
    i haven't made any modules for Z yet, but will shortly be working out what size suits me best and then i will make a couple of practice modules very close to the way you do, ie a flat but very stiff base, most likely 1/2 inch plywood, as MDF warps too easily for my liking with two layers of foam on top. I can buy 8 x 4 ft sheets of foam 2 inches thick ( i have two on hand now ) and four inches is a big height in Z.
    Something around the 26 inch (660mm) length ( 6 x 110mm straight ) as a starting point for a module is what looks good at the moment for me.
    Eliot
     
  9. cely

    cely Permanently dispatched

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    One weeks work. I'm taking these to the SANTRAK club on Saturday. They will tell me if they are OK or need work.

    I use 25 PSI Dow Scoreboard foam. So far, it's strong enough to straighten out any warping in my 1/4" MDF. If I have to, I can get 40 and even 60 PSI foam. The only other issue with MDF is that it is considered a "hardwood". Meaning that the standard T-nuts will chip the MDF. I use a variant of a T-Nut called a Propell nut. I use 10-24 Propell nuts because the 1/4-20 nuts are way too tall for 1/4" MDF. You can get plastic tipped set screws (in virtually any size) which makes it easy to adjust the height from the top with an allen wrench.

     

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  10. timatheronwood

    timatheronwood New Member

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    ZFRANK likes this.
  11. ztrack

    ztrack TrainBoard Supporter Advertiser

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    There is a very active T-Trak-Z group on Facebook. I have been very impressed with their work and modules. For those on FB, the link is:

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/ttrakz/

    It is definitely worth checking out. I plan to play up their standards in a future issue of Ztrack Magazine.

    Rob
     
    ZFRANK likes this.
  12. strummer

    strummer TrainBoard Member

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    Jeff "BAZ BoyZ":

    First off, I enjoyed those pictures from your April 2009 show; looks like quite a crew, including some younger fellows...

    Secondly, I can't believe none of you have to use an Optivisor!

    Thirdly, I can't believe you drink beer out of a can! :eek:

    Mark in Oregon :)
     
    JoeTodd and Kurt Moose like this.

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