Steve: That loco looks like it needs company..... Maybe two or three cars behind it. Stay cool and run steam....
What MT coupler can I put on the tender as the passenger cars I have are all accumates. FD - thanks - I plan on it. Now that I have post poned the GN main line I think it is "manageble".
I used a MT Z scale # 905 on the tender. You also can use a MT #1023 or #1015. The MT Z scale #905 looks better than the other two couplers. Stay cool and run steam.....
Lastest Progress: Removing the main line, (parts are still there but not connected) Finished the track for the GandG. There are still 5 or so spurs to put in. The Grandure Yard and decent to the valley: The track along the back wall is the hidden return loop for continuous running. Industries to go along forward central area. 8" Radius curve on the corner. A small hillock will be put there, (in the aisle area), to obfuscate the eye. Area to the forward of the power supply is 1x3 feet and wil be used for a few different models. Larger images here: http://www.railimages.com/gallery/2_Grey_and_Grandure_Construction (Last 3 on page) When all of the power / block system and some scenery is down I'll begin on the GN main again. I figure by then I'll be good enough to wire it for by DCC and DC. [ November 13, 2005, 01:40 PM: Message edited by: Grey One ]
Steve: Looks like you've made alot of progress in the last few weeks. Have fun..... Stay cool and run steam.....
Status Update: </font> Buried all turnout wires</font> </font> Made last adjustments to the 3rd Table</font> </font> Put flex track in the yard area</font> </font> Am testing track</font> Short Term Things To Do </font> Make refinments to kato #4</font> </font> Put in stronger support for track where bridges will go</font> </font> Build ramp down where foam trainsistions from 2 1/2 to 2"s</font> </font> Practice sodering</font> </font> Create transitions from Kato track to no ballast in the yard to further distingquish traick</font> </font> Test track one more time</font> When done, proceed to insualting rail for block system.
Request for ideas / solutions Temporary Bridge Support: How best to support track till a real bridge is b uilt. Supporting track as it tranistions from 2 1/2"s to 2"s. How best to support the track as it drops 1/2 an inch. How best to support track in transition from Kato to flex track directly on foam?
Looks like you are cranking right along. Very nice. Feel free to ignore this comment. I worry about your 8" curve. Just gonna cause you problems later on. Worse yet it's going to be in a hard to see/reach place. Recipe for trouble if you ask me. Why not lay cork roadbed under the flex track?
Geeky all comments are welcome. Ya never know when it might jar a thought. Thanks. The 8" curves are in easily accesable areas. Also I will only be running short cars and trains on the GandG portion. I'll get a picture. So far I have Been able to back a 10 car train including a few of the 70 ton ore cars around the loop. I want to enhance the visual that these are yard tracks.
Steve have you thought about using the 2% risers from woodland scenics. That is what i used on mine. here is the before and here is the after I have since put the track back.
Great progress and very interesting, I am following your construction as a how to per say for when I start construction. So are you using flex track for your yards? That is a good idea and would save me some $$ as I have a yard or two planned . Wiking, On the Canton Division, I am planning a nolix. Would you advise using the risers from Woodland? There will be 18" between levels. I was thinking of fabricating supports out of wood and incorporating these into the hillside. Thoughts? Bob, Are you talking about extra ballast and then thin it out as you go?
Matt: That's correct. I did that in my turntable area as I transitioned fron Atlas code 80 track from the turntable to the Unitrack transition piece. I also used wood strips to hold that extra ballast in place . It worked out rather well. Stay cool and run steam....
Viking – Yes, I considered Woodland but felt it was a bit pricey and I “should” be able to do it myself. Bob thanks for the idea. I have a box of clay kitty litter. Maybe I’ll test that. If not I can always get ballast. Here is an update of the plan. This is very close to scale but still not perfect. I have included the radious of the curves. Anything not labeled is at least 15 and probably 19 or 28. The biggest changes are: Inglenook siding in the center At Grey, (far front), - Moved the run – a – round track off of the main created approaches to the modular area. Questions? Comments? Thanks again to everyone for getting me this far.
Updated Picture of the Trackwork at Grey Old: You can see how the Run - a - Round - worked off the main. Now: The track plan does not portray it very well.
Steve: You can contain the ballast under the track by using balsa wood strips built up to the track. You then stain the wood a Rail tie Brown and voila, you have support for your transition to the Unitrack. Stay cool and run steam.....
