I think you must remember that this discussion revolves around using Unitrack turnouts specifically # 6, but the info pertains to # 4 and the double crossover as well. You can run your layout switching between DCC and DC. You must have a switch to turn off one of the power supplies when the other isn't in use. You must remember that with DCC, you can have any number of loco's on the layout either in motion or at rest. The DCC layout doesn't have to be blocked for this phenomena to happen. A loco becomes active when it's address(number) is called up by the operator. You can have any number of loco's on a siding or many sidings. The confusion comes when you switch back to DC. All the extra loco's must be removed from the layout (one loco/consist per block) in order to run your DC. I usually have 30+ loco's parked live (headlights on) on the JJJ&E at various points of the layout. I may only be running two trains with four loco's in two consists(one for each train) at the time. I do have the ability to call up other loco's to run on the mainline track while two trains are in operation. I can usually run two trains comfortably on the JJJ&E by myself. I've run three trains but that requires constant vigilence as one of the reverse loops on the upper level of the JJJ&E crosses the mainline twice as it descends to lower levels. I also stated that you connect two wires to your DCC command station and unhook your DC power supply. Then you can rewire the layout for DCC at your leisure. This means connecting all track to common bus lines. With DCC loco's can move from one block to another as well as moving to and from reverse loops without throwing switches. The wiring has to be set up for this although it's not necessary for the initial installation of DCC from DC. If you switch to DCC, make the decision to forgo the DC and eventually convert all your loco's to DCC. BTW, with DCC you can run one analog loco on the layout. They run but may do so in a haphazard fashion especially if you have reverse loops. I'm still converting analog loco's to DCC after seven years. I think that this thread has strayed from it's original topic. Stay cool and run steam....
Ben: You can retain one cab for DC and use DCC for starters. Eventually you have to fine tune the DC blocks to DCC by dropping feeders to common bus lines. I use 14 gauge solid copper wire for the bus line lines and 22 gauge solid copper wire for the feeders. The JJJ&E has been enlarged to 12 x 10 in an inverted "U" shape. There are four reverse loops plus a fifth for the turntable. I'm using a Lenz 100 system for the main command station ( 5 amps) for the double track mainline on multiple levels and adjacent sidings. I originally started out in DCC with a Lenz 01 Professional (4 amps). In my switching yard and turntable area I'm using part of the 01 Professional to run a second power district. The staging yard and shortline run that I'm adding now is also controlled by the second power district(4 amps). The control part of the 01 Professional is wired directly to the Lenz 100 system. The second power district has it's own set of common bus lines. When a loco runs from one power district to another there is no interruption in power and no switches to pull. In short you need more than a DCC starter set. Like I said before if you decide to go to DCC, forego the DC. You can use the DC for a "crutch" at the beginning, but in less than a weeks time, you'll enjoy DCC so much, you'll never look back. DCC is a constant learning process and after seven plus years of using this technology I'm still learning. The learning curve is steep at the beginning but after one week you'll be up and running trains easily provided the loco's have decoders installed. Stay cool and run steam.....
katojb: Welcome to Trainboard. If you're going to use other turnouts besides Kato turnouts you'll have to wire the switches and turnouts accordingly for DCC. If you're going to use all Kato track and turnouts insulated connectors aren't necessary. HOWEVER, for example, the JJJ&E is presently wired into twelve blocks. They are used for signaling, feedback, and block occupancy detection. So you might want to wire your new layout with those factors in mind. There will be more blocks with this addition I'm building. Stay cool and run steam.....
Bob, and others, Thanks for all the information. Breaks down years of resistance and indecision for me. Although the topic may have strayed, it brought together a bunch of related answers for me. Ben
Ben: Yes, this has been a very interesting discussion. If and when you'll switch to DCC, you'll never look back. It opens an entirely different area of model railroading that you've never experienced before. It's never too late to make that decision. Stay cool and run steam.....
Bob. Thanks for the info well I was trying to figure out why I had to insulate them? thats what the guy at the train shop told me that I deal with. at the current time the layout is roughed in and is operating on dc but as I said it is going to be converted to dcc. I am torn on the turn outs at the moment all are kato but at another section of the layout I'm affraid I'm going to have to use someone elses turn outs but thats a ways down the road. I need to get my present area I'm working on farther along. Thanks for the info. katojb
Perhaps you can still use the Kato turnouts. They are the most reliable turnouts in N scale. I found ways to use all Kato turnouts especially in my switching yard. Kato track can be laid out without any problems. I test the trackwork on the JJJ&E by running Kato PA/PB units in both directions at various speeds. The Kato PA/PB units will find track irregularities very quickly due to those large three axle trucks. They just glide through all the turnouts and crossovers on the JJJ&E very nicely like a hot knife through frozen butter. Have fun.. Stay cool and run steam...
My layout has both #6 and #4 Unitrack turnouts. I have a slide switch to connect to either DC or DCC power and it works perfectly with either kind of power. I'm sure yours will too. Don't worry about all the comments above; just hook up the DCC and run. The breaker in your DCC base unit will protect you should there be an unforseen problem. If you have blocked the layout, you'll have to connect the blocks together (with a slide switch) as I did.
Our Resident Expert May be not! I just finished a read through the entire thread and noted some interesting facts that I missed the first time. First: Our Resident Expert, Powersteamguy 1790, Bob has made some superb points in favor of using Kato's Unitrack #6 Switches. Since this thread I've learned to trust Bob's input and advice with regard to DCC. Second: I went out and proved Bob's theories with the #6 switches and he's right. Not that I always agree with every observation Bob makes. We can agree to disagree on some things and still be friends. Bob, he has my respect. Unfortunately or unintentionally I did muddy the waters with points that were perhaps mute or bogus...as it turns out. Oh, the shame. My layout must meet certain criteria that makes me comfortable. Most likely an effort in futility. But, I won't know until I try. I'm just one of those kind of guys that learns from the school of hard knocks. I usually prove a theory before I act on it or believe it. Dumb...eh? Maybe not because, I have disproved a bunch of stuff I learned when I started in the hobby 42 years ago. Ask me about common rail sometime and watch the blood rush to my face and lips turn blue...or was that when I had a heart attack? So, I would encourage you to go back and give it a read. Lot's of good information and I would suggest you ignore those entries by that guy Barstow Rick...grin! Ahh, that is the ones posted in this thread. I would hate to think you would ignore me outside of this thread. Maybe I need to...naw...to late, I allready said it. Enjoy!
Rick: You made some good points in this thread as a new user of Unitrack and DCC at that point in time.. These are common questions asked and provide a great basis for discussion and learning. I'm still learning about DCC after so many years of using the system. Between us, we have over 100 years of experience in model railroading. Take care my friend. Stay cool and run steam.....
Rick Yes you can use them on DCC see Bob's posting but they work great. See my blog for my new layout using only UNI-TRACK no special anthing for using these switches. Straight forward no issues or modifications unless you want to stuff a decoder in side of them but I have opted for a manual version of swicthing for now. Steve
