I only use 1" foam. I like this size for Z has it gives me more control over may layers. My main line is set at 4" above the frame. I do this since it allows me two options for modeling. One option is to go up and over the rails such as tunnels and such. But is also allows me to go below the mainline. You will see what I mean in the image below. That main line is still at the 4" mark, but I have cut down 3" to create the quarry area. The track into the quarry is graded and winds it's way back up to the mainline. Don, I saw the booth, but did not pay much attention to it. I wish I had! It does appear to be a good option. Rob
Some progress as I pulled up the risers, put down a level 1" layer of XPS and redesigned my layout. It's still a folded figure 8 with a terminal/yard, but I moved the switches from each other, which required a bit of redesigning and added easements to the curves. But, here's the terminal station, with temporary cork platforms, track, train, etc. for photographic purposes. I also made good use of my scrap foam to show where better cut foam would go (or hold up polystyrene sheets). The whole layout has catenary, so the terminal will have a lot of it. That should look cool and shiny under the lights. The terminal station building will be in the upper right hand corner and may be done as an underground design. The outer loop will run on top of where the polystyrene sheets are. Here's another section: Here's where the double tracks meet back on themselves and the yard joins the loop. Since the tracks rejoin at differing heights, this took a bit of work to get just right. There will be eventually be foam under the inside track keeping it level until it rejoins the loop. The higher, formerly outside, now inside loop rejoins the risers where the tape measure is. There will also be a strip of foam between the tracks before they rejoin that will help hold up the roof. There will be polystyrene square rods holding up a foam roof 1.5" above the track giving a cut-away of this part of the tunnel. The tunnel ends (or starts) about a foot or so up the lower riser behind the camera. No catenary here yet, but it's going in with the tracks.
This should give you a better idea of what I'm doing. Here it is with almost no temporary foam and some temporary roadbed and track. The black lines that diverge from the track under the Metroliner show where the outer loop, elevated 3" above the base, crosses over itself to become the inner loop and rejoin the risers in the lower right hand corner. The inner loop tracks, normally spaced one crossover from each other have to diverge because they rejoin at different points, which are at different elevations. I think it gives a good look to this intersection.
Just one more pic. a track level view of the intersection. I think it shows the double tunnels pretty well.
It's a crossing, not a double slip. But, the tunnel opens up to the front, so I'll have access to it.
I plod away at my 3x6 End module. Building a tank farm. Here is the basics, building the containment berms. Used Basswood sanded to a taper, CA'd to styrene base. Kibri tanks. Now I need to smooth and transition the berm edges, paint it a dark brown and weather it. .
Nice Tank Farm! What a great tank car industry. Ive been trying my hand and making some water for the first time. My lumber mill needed a log pond so I carved a hole in the ground and painted it a dark blue. Then I cut up some twigs for logs and filled it up with WS realistic water. I'm wishing I had used a little more green in the paint, and possibly that I had used a different type of water. But I guess I'll keep as is for now. Oh yeah, and I'm cheating on Z scale with Nn3.
Here is something you might consider. I find the WS "water" gets very dull over time. Let cure what you have for about a week. Do a little painting touch up on the surface. Then use MAGIC WATER and pour on about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thickness. Let it set about 12 to 24 hours and then sprinkle LIGHTLY the Darice glitter. What happens with the glitter is that it sparkles as your head moves around from light reflecting off the glitter. Cost is a few dollars and what you see in the container photo will last you 4 lifetimes. Be SURE to let the Magic Water cure for the 12 to 24 hours before adding the glitter as it will sink and not look as good. Magic Water surface seems to stay glossy for years. What you see in these photos were done as described with WS as a filler and Magic Water on top - although all my new water is 100% Magic Water. The glitter comes from any big craft supply store. FWIW, I live on a lake and these results are pretty realistic. ...don
Just to let you know, I'm still fiddling around with my latest module and adding some new stuff one in a while.
I haven't posted my progress lately, but there has been some. I decided to use Woodland Scenic's top coat asphalt to paint the tunnel and added some Plastruct girders painted Reefer Yellow to support the roof. They don't support the roadbed, while the ones in the back do. Uploaded with ImageShack.us
OK more progress. Essentially, I gave up on tortoise switches, as well as using Marklin turnouts and the crossing. I tore all that up and decided to go with MTL remote turnouts and sectional track in the front where all the switches are. This should make my life a lot easier in case I ever decide to run trains on my layout. I do, however, have a a bunch of tortoise machines that I might want to use for something at some point. Not sure what. I also got rid of the crossing because even when it was was working, the cars would bounce through it, making me very nervous. It'll be a little more work getting a train onto the inner track, but I'm hoping the MTL switches will make that as stress free as possible. The only track conflict beyond the single track on the way to the terminal is shown in red and that only happens when the train on the inner track is going into the terminal while a train is on the outer loop. The station on top is at the same level as the pink foam in the center so a spur from there is not out of the question. Uploaded with ImageShack.us Legend: Blue = Water Thin red line = basla on which the whole station rests over the water. Thick brown line = Tunnel. Only the inner loop goes in the tunnel with the outer loop going over it. The tunnel is open to the front giving a cut-a-way view.
Bump! Put together one of Stonebridge Models billboards. Very nice kit. But it seems I am on a tear illuminating my yard module. Well what would a billboard be if it didn't have lights? Soo.... Gotta trim that bush!
Added more lights to my Z Bend module. Taken with my camera phone, but still looks pretty good. Main street intersection Another intersection Entrance to Intermodal yard. Gas station on left and Lew's Screws on right.
