What's on your workbench?

JR59 Jan 29, 2006

  1. gmorider

    gmorider TrainBoard Member

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    Sleeper convert and NP RS look great! (y)
     
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  2. mrnosal

    mrnosal TrainBoard Member

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    rray, gmorider, ztrack and 1 other person like this.
  3. kevsmith

    kevsmith TrainBoard Member

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    Finally finished>

    Walt's 3d printed brass GE, Ingersol, Rand Boxcab.

    I have done it in a general green livery rather than the CNJ colour scheme as it is intended to run on the forest line on Hakuho, work the high line on Republic Steel and work the docks on Cuyahoga. So a busy little engine. Paint is Hycote Meadow Green, as the windows are all small they were glazed with Krystal Klear.

    [​IMG]

    It has caused quite a stir when it was running around in unpainted brass as the level of detail is astonishing

    [​IMG]

    Here is a reminder of how it looked unpainted

    [​IMG]

    Still putting the wasp stripes on the FM H10-44, Sigh!

    Kev
     
  4. JoeS

    JoeS TrainBoard Member

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    That loco looks really sharp! I can definitely see why it gets attention. Nicely done!
     
  5. gmorider

    gmorider TrainBoard Member

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    It looks great!
     
  6. kevsmith

    kevsmith TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Robert
    I am truly in awe sometimes of the things you achieve

    regards

    Kev
     
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  7. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    3D printed brass? Wow, 3 things:
    1. It must have cost a fortune for the print.
    2. It must be heavy and really a great puller with all the extra tractive effort.
    3. It's bright and looks good painted, too!
     
  8. minzemaennchen

    minzemaennchen TrainBoard Member

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    It's not 3D printed brass, Shapeways makes a mold from a 3D master and cast in brass. Doesn't cost a fortune < $100
     
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  9. eXact Modellbau

    eXact Modellbau TrainBoard Member

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    Hello
    This is my last project: a W├╝rttemberg luggage cart. The chassis of the car next to it is also from my workbench.

    2020-07-11 09.34.39.jpg

    2020-07-10 22.54.33-1.jpg
     
  10. John Bartolotto

    John Bartolotto TrainBoard Supporter

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  11. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    +1 Wow! That is a super detailed luggage car! [​IMG]
     
  12. gmorider

    gmorider TrainBoard Member

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    More great work!
     
  13. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    I got a couple caboose kits to build, an Animek CN Transfer Caboose which I have always wanted to build, but never had the time, and, one of my own kits, an NP Steel Cupola Caboose in BN Merger paint that I had previously started:
    1.jpg
     
  14. kevsmith

    kevsmith TrainBoard Member

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    Hi Robert
    I've done a couple of Animek cabooses and would best describe them as 'challenging'. They were single thickness veneer rather than thin ply and had a habit of warping every time I did a join. maybe it was me but the transfer caboose also warped when I painted it.

    I left the centre cupola caboose unpainted and show it when I have a layout out as an example of Z scale laser cut kits. Although the best example is still the rake of your centrebeams where people refuse to believe they are plywood!

    [​IMG]

    These cars have racked up a lot of miles!

    cheers mate

    Kev
     
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  15. HemiAdda2d

    HemiAdda2d Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I'm super interested in how a pre-painted, laser kit in Z like that works out.
     
  16. bostonjim

    bostonjim TrainBoard Member

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    Hi, Kev
    I have built several of Animek's more challenging kits (road grader and ladder truck) and have not experienced any warping. I did prime all of the parts with a light coat of Tamiya primer first and then their actual color later. Is there high humidity where they are stored? Was something heavy stored on them? I have also built just about every house/building he has made and still no issues. I did not do the cabeese, though. Maybe it was a bad run on that day...Jim
     
  17. rray

    rray Staff Member

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    You did an excellent job on those Centerbeam cars Kev! I improved on them quite a bit by reworking them in the much smoother Laserboard.

    The NP Caboose was not prepainted, rather I assembled parts of it then painted those parts before assembly because i wanted a crisper paint job. I will have to touchup the paint, then decal and clearcoat the caboose after assembly.

    As far as painting wood without warping, what you have to do is seal the model with "Thompsons Water Seal" in the spray can, and let dry a couple days, then you can paint with any paint you want and not get warping.
     
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  18. animek

    animek TrainBoard Member

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    In that time frame, I was using cardboard veneer as my main construction material, it was quite easy to work with without much issues.
    I've never experienced any warping situation, especially as describe here. And I have made quite a few models using this materials. The pictures below are showing models directly painted, no primer involved.
    Otherwise I would not have created kits out of this. Ok, it was not the best material compared to plastic, but I was using what was available locally, we don't have any tin plywood at reasonable prices here in Canada, even the Polybak is only made in the U.S., but it is more affordable than the 1/64 plywood. In any case, I ain't producing them anymore.
    [​IMG]
    Tests I've made when creating the kits. some where airbrushed, others where painted using a regular handbrush.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] When dry, the
    veneer was coming back to a flat state. in 30 minutes or so.
     
  19. Joe Lovett

    Joe Lovett TrainBoard Member

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    Ray, Thank you for the tip about sealing wood kits. I have a sand house that was warped when I painted it. Now I know what to do.

    Joe
     
  20. kevsmith

    kevsmith TrainBoard Member

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    I'll have another go and see if I can avoid the issues. I did use Humbrol Acrylic which is a different formula to Tamiya completely and may be a root cause of the issues

    Kev
     

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