Did a little experimental etching today. Etched out of .010 Steel Sheet stock for the body and the underframe, and .080 for the details. This represents the SP F70-25 89' flat. This may have been TOFC's at one time but have been stripped of all their deck gear for general purpose flats. Some of these I believe were converted to Freight Recovery Flats...photo's of boxcars and Hoppers strapped to them. I just tossed a quick pipe load on it,this will not grace the car as it's intended for the back of the Cement Plant I have been working on. Anyway,this is just a proof model, lots of changes and additons to the artwork now that I have one put together. The underframe will be a bit more complicated with correct supports and piping. Again,needed to do one so I knew what had to be fixed. Nice thing about the steel is that I'm almost correct weight without a load. The coupler is mounted to a small version of the 1019 also out of steel with supports at the end to keep the knuckles at the correct height. Hopefully in a few days I can do a second etch and things will fit better. Also bending the sides beyond 90% is a challenge. I ended up using a blade from a Planer in a press and drove it into the counter etch on the underside. I think with a little more time in the tank the fold will be easier. It's also riding too high and the new spine will have the bolster built into it so I can get more consistant sit. Cheers Joe
So the main flat body top and sides are one big etched piece? Looks good to me, was it a pain to get perfectly straight?
One piece with a back etch at the fold. Since it was .010 I did the etch the same width. Not to hard to keep straight. I clamped it in a vice with smooth inserts and used a blade from a plainer to bend it over. I took a fine wide file and gave the sides a couple of swipes to get rid of any bumps...not much to speak of. Not sure if you've worked with Stainless before, expecially this thick, it holds it's shape pretty well. I'm going to invest in one of those hobby Brakes from Micro Mark, that might make it more consistant. I have fold the sides over 15-degrees to get the right tumblehome and you need something sharp to work the inside of the edge. I used a new acid (will get the name tomorrow...not Ferric Cloride) and in a small container, full strength I went through .010 stock in 10 minutes! I normally cut the etchant 50-50, but given the results I may stick with the stock as it comes. When I do the next set up I'll shoot some picks of the assembly. Joe
Cool. I have been mixing muriatic acid with the ferric chloride. Some people use it straight. When I mix them it seems to last longer than FeCl alone.
Very cool. Although I propably wouldn't use a 89' flat car on my layout it's still great to see the process you use to achieve the desired goal. It inspires ideas and helps eliminate some (some, not all ) of the hesitation to dive in and try new techniques. Thanks for sharing with us. I'm always interested in seeing how you do what you do!
NICE lookng flat car, sir. Quick question: where do the couplers go? If truck mount, how do you keep the height of the car down. If Body Mount, how do you deal with the end of the car swinging out during a curve in the track?
Gee Rob...not sure I should be giving out secrets! ) Kidding. I have a brass version of the 1019 which is an extension that will be captured by the bolster pin and hook to the side frame supports. If you look under one of our AutoRacks or TOFC's you'll get the concept. I am working on the art now to incoporate the sturrips with a brace that keeps the coupler level with the track. I'll also use the trucks with couplers without the box...that gives me a longer surface to lay into. Joe
Gotcha! We went with a self-centering body mount for the Z Autorack, but I figgured that was a wee bit too complex for this project. It looks GREAT - Congrads!
Wow, that's cool Joe, I have been trying to etch SS and every time the protective layer peels off. I was going to try paint and lasering it but with that I can only do singe sided etch. I temporarily gave up SS etching. You are restoring my hope on SS home etching. Kim
Nice flatcar Joe! Your idea for bolster mounted couplers instead of truck mounted couplers sounds like a winner for long car projects! Hi Kim, I got the press and peel to stick to stainless by wet sanding the metal with 600 grit then rinsing with cold water. When dry, I ironed on the press and peel blue paper, and it peeled off fine. I used an OKI laser to print on the press and peel, because the ink from my Brother laser won't stick.
Rob, I did the same the press and peel worked to stick the ink to the ss but when I etched with FeCl the ink just fell off, maybe the OKI ink sticks better on SS. It is a good idea to bake the SS after peeling the ink adheres better, I'll try that too. If SS works we can make finer details. Kim
We're probably all mad! Anyway, here is a sketch of what I am doing to extend the coupler...I own this design so I got dibbs! Etched out of .010 ss or brass is plenty of material to keep the coupler ridged and in place. The round hole fits over the bolster hole in the truck and the long opening fits over the center post of the coupler. Oh, the truck is one of our's with the draft gear taken off and only the platform remains. The rectangle allows some fudge on the fit...the bolster will keep it firm and the slot will keep it from pivoting right or left. The 905 screws into the end and you should be pretty close to center. I need to etch this and then adjust the bolster height to allow for the material...but for sure the car will sit lower than it does now. I will also add a dab of Goo under the coupler to keep it seated. I considered making a tab, but from the testing I did in the past, this with the screw keeps things in line. Oh yea, the chemical I etch with is from Cronite and it's called "new improved steel etchant"...sorta light green stuff. Nitric Acid and a few other nasties to do the job. I went through the .010 stock in 5 minutes using the material full strength. The problem with dilutions sometimes is that you get counter etching under the image the longer the material sets in solution...so the faster the better. Joe MTL
PCB Etching Always looking for another bunny trail...here's an interesting article on making negs out of laser paper soaked in Sunflower Oil. I did something like this once on a rush project and was surprised at how well the parts came out. I don't know if this would work for scale chain or not, car sides probably. I used it after the first test to make negs to produce palm trees and structural shapes with good effect. Nice thing about this process, when you are done you can make French Fries! Joe MTl
