HI FOLKS, A QUICK QUESTION: Has anyone used the Atlas Under Table Switch Machines # 65? If so, could you please give me an honest assessment of the switches. Do they tend to hang-up? Are they flimsy? They look kind of cheaply made, but they are priced very reasonable. They also seem to be great space savers. Any and all thought appreciated.
I don't remember what the number was but I have numerous Atlas Under-Table switches installed in my layout. They were installed in approximately the mid 80's. They all function like new and always have. Actually, all my Atlas switches, from that time period, still function like new. Glenn
In 2015, I was installing #6 switches on the mainlines and I used Atlas custom line switches so I was looking for a lot pf the under table machines. I bought a couple for about 6 bucks apiece but then I lucked out and a gal had 12 of them for 25 bucks on eBay. I installed them pretty much the same as on the Atlas instructions except I didn't drill holes in the center of the throw bar. I just used the holes already there on the side. After they were adjusted/positioned to throw the switches equally to both routes, I have never had to readjust them. Doug
The issue is the length of the throw-bar lever. Your layout has to be pretty thin for these to work. These are an old product first produced a long time ago, when the 'plywood pacific' was common. If you have a thicker layout with layers of foam or cork under the track, the pin won't be long enough. If they will fit on your layout, that's great, but if not, look for some of the ones with a wire-based throw. Most Slow-motion machines like Tortoises can be fitted with longer wires, but you can find a few solenoid-based ones online too if you prefer the 'classic' design.
I think the fix is extremely simple, as you do not have to mount under the plywood. I will have .5 of foam and minimal .375 foam core. I can sandwich between foam Core and blue foam. I would have to devise a quick way to get to the switch if there is a problem, but I think that would be very doable also. In any case, I found five of these on the cheap and will see how things go. I was wondering how an extension rod may work on one of these switches. Thanks for the reply.
Thanks for the reply's, folks. I have 5 of the switches headed my way, so I will soon find out how I can adapt these to my layout.
It's not difficult to add an extension wire to the plastic Atlas pin so it sticks up further, either. I have done it before. You just drill a hole and stick a piece of piano wire in there. Doug
I have also used some Atlas #2065 under table machines for code 55 switches. They are more expensive but have a DPDT switch in them to power the frog and switch it to the correct polarity for the route selected. the throw pin is a piece of piano wire instead of plastic and is longer. I had to actually cut a lot off after installation. They work great! Good luck with your #65s, KWE! Doug
Do you mean one of the two brass holes where the shifting rails attach to the slider? As a side note, after much trial & error, I finally figured out (thx SCARM!) that if using #4 12.5d yard turnouts then half a 22r curve (#836) gives one, more-or-less, perfect multiple parallel tracks. With layout board a tad over 3/4" thick I'd 'ave to lose the foam trackbed what type/brand "gravel" is best? And, if spread/gluing in place, cannot imagine HOW that'd be accomplished?
The Atlas N scale custom line code 80 or 55 switches have a hole on the end of each side of the plastic throw bar/rod. I use one of those, depending on the side desired, instead of drilling a new hole in the middle of the throw bar. Doug
Lordy let me be Another 'A'S'S'U'M'E: After much examination it appears I 'ave many of what SCARM calls "RS L" and "RS R"s (20d Remote Snap-Switch(s) #850 & #851) which, in order to attain a parallel turnout, one needs two(2) 18d/10's (#835) OR a custom cut 18/20? Oh BOY! Get to use the Jewelry saw again! (half a 22r didn't "look right")
A quick update on these switches: They arrived and seem to be good and sturdy. I hooked one up to an Atlas switch and the machine worked like a champ. My new challenge is throwing these switches with a SPDT momentary toggle switch, with an added green and red LED on front panel and trackside for clear indication of which side the points are facing. Figuring out the toggle was a small challenge, but I managed to get the switch working. My only problem at this point is the micro toggle I am using is kind of cheap and I feel it will be unreliable. I priced some heavy-duty toggles, and they were much more expensive (about 12.00 each), but as the saying goes - 'You get what you pay for". The wiring to throw the switch - green & yellow to outer poles, red, direct to AC, and center pole on toggle, direct to AC.
You mean "red direct to ground" and "+" on center pole? But then one only needs one-side of a double-pole switch to do that, correct? How do your signal lights THATS the $1000 micro-soldering dilemma . . (lol for me anyway) Am seriously considering the "SnapBase/touch-toggle" route one can quite easily manage trackside LEDs with their optional SignalDrivers (a 4pack works out to $7.45 each). I use 24v dc which, in combo with resisters, seems just fine.
Mike you have to get creative. I'm sure by Using the old and the new together I can get where I need to go. Once I have it the way I want it, I will upload a video.
Not that it's critical as long as things are kept straight but the usual colors, in the USA, for switch wiring, are black for common (the center terminal) green for the straight route and red for the diverging route. This follows the prototype where a green light on the switch stand is used for indicating the switch is set for the straight route and a red light when the switch is set for the diverging route. Doug
You might want to look at this link for your twin-coil machines. I used a different circuit of Rob's for my Kato single-coil machines. https://web.archive.org/web/20141224092252/http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/ToggleTwin.html
Thats a test board and whatever scaps of wire I had laying around I used. Also, wiring my home layout only need to make sense to me, as I am the one who has to go back and figure what is what, having said that, I do try to keep it as simple as possible and follow the norms, but I do appreciate your reply.
