That might dim it to about where they will look the same. Is that a DPDT toggle in the video? If so run the pushbutton and the power to the switch machine and you will be there. Throw the toggle and push the button and the switch machine will throw and the lights will be aligned. If you are trying to do it with one switch I could see using a DPDT momentary toggle where one side would do the switch machine like you first had it and the others side would do the light. The only way I'd see that happening though would be using some latching relays or some type of latching circuit that would latch pushing the momentary toggle one way to turn on one LED and the other way would un-latch that circuit and latch the other LED on. So forth back and forth. Could work but at a lot more expense and wiring difficulty. I don't mind throwing the turnout being a 2 step deal. Throw the toggle then push the button. Some times as I approach the turnout I throw the toggle before the train goes through and as it clears the turnout hit the button and the turnout is thrown to the other route. It can become quite natural feeling. Be interesting to see what you come up with. Sumner
Sumner, as of right now I only have the SPDT momentary switch and yes, the bigger toggle is a DPDT switch. I had no choice but to modify the diagram to get some semblance of functionality. I ordered an SPST momentary push-button switch that I will not see until Monday. Once that switch arrives, I will solder the 870 - ohm resistor into place and change up the wiring to resemble the diagram you posted.
Update: I modified the #65 Atlas servo. Now I have a very sturdy extension rod that can be adjusted to move up or down for fine tuning.
Some more experimenting with the Atlas #65 servo. I put together a prototype test panel. I will actually start throwing switches and see how the system works. Hopefully all goes well in the wiring, and I won't have to fuss too much. I will post a video once things appear to be working (if they work at all).
I went to the breadboard to test some resistor configurations. I think the LED's are now looking even with current set-up. 820 ohms red - 1k ohm green. The video has some glare and lighting is hard to see. I posted a picture that may be more useful. Please let me know what you folks think about the lighting and if it appears even. Thanks, in advance.
They look fine in the video. The green is brighter in the photo. I guess I would make the final determination based on what room lighting will be normally used. Doug
Thanks for the reply Doug. It was hard to shoot a nice clean video of LED's burning, the photo doesn't do much better. I think the green may be slightly brighter, but I think it may be close enough. I will continue to tinker with resistor configurations for a few more days and see if I can get it a bit better.
Not all LEDs are created equal. Some are brighter than others. They do look different in the photo, but what you'll see in the final installation is more head-on than from the side. LEDs are constructed so that maximum light is emitted toward the rounded end than to the sides. Eyeball them from the ends and you'll get a better idea of what you'll see. Tip: the human retina is more sensitive to green light and less so to red. That's why amateur astronomers out in a dark field use red flashlights, so they don't desensitize their eyes or those of their fellow observers.
The video and the photo truly do no justice to what the eye is truly seeing while it sits on the workbench. In reality, the lights look much closer to even than what the photo conveys. But I am still working on it. Thats the beauty of building a prototype board, as there is always time to tinker and dial things in to your liking. Thanks for the reply, Mike, it's always appreciated.
