So, here's a test run. I think I will use the Brett Hill set-up. A few extra dollars is worth hours of needless headaches. https://www.berretthillshop.com/store/products/twin-coil-control-base/
Not sure I understand the whole situation but I'd thin that using a DPDT toggle switch with one side controlling the switch machine and the other side controlling the LEDs and a momentary pushbutton switch activating the switch machine side. The LED side gets current all the time and the other side only when you push the pushbutton. I'm using switch-boxes like above to activate servo controllers and the turnout servo. I don't want power to the servo controller and servo all the time. You throw the toggle switch and push the button switch. The turnout throws. Let up on the button switch and the route light stays lit. This could be mounted in a control panel also. The wiring diagram above is for my circuit and I thin part of it could work for you and the rest modified to work (disregard all of the bottom stuff and the wiring on the right side of the DPDT switch.. You would use the existing part of the diagram on the left to the LED's. The right side is the control for the servo controller and servo under the turnout in my case. You would replace all of that with the circuit that controls your switch-machine. If I could see a wiring diagram for what the switch machine needs I could see if the above could be modified to work and do a drawing. These parts are really inexpensive. Yes I'm had a couple of the cheap parts have problems but not many and I test them before using them I do know that you want to solder quickly to the pushbutton switches. Longer and you can damage them. Sumner
That's a neat solution @Sumner and actually quite prototypical. Classic era CTC machines have switches to control switches and signals, and a momentary pushbutton switch to then send the command to the field.
Most of my switches are controlled by the old Atlas lever-type throwers so I can quickly see which way the switch is thrown by the lever position. Real old stuff. I eventually obtained the Italian-made versions for all positions as they are much more reliable than the Austrian-made versions. Doug
Hardcoaler. I am not sure how my quoted response ended up on your reply, it was intended to be a response to Doug's wire color information. Sorry about the mistake, and thanks for your link, I looked it over and found it very helpful.
Thanks for this great info, Sumner. it's much appreciated. As far as a diagram for what is needed, the best I could do is to draw up how I connected the switch. What I need to add is a set of 4 LED lights (2 red - 2 green). One pair of lights mounted to control panel and the other pair track side.
Oh my gosh, I'd forgotten all about those! Neat old stuff. They plugged together side-by-side with protruding metal tips, right?
Yes and they were included in Atlas switches from the first ones made in Italy by Casadio, in the orange and blue boxes, through the Austrian switches on the yellow and orange bubble packs (with the two-piece switch machines). I'm pretty sure Atlas started supplying their usual #56 slide-switch/push controllers after that, although since the ones in the yellow and orange boxes, after that, came from both Austria and the USA, there may have been some with the lever controllers. The Italian controllers have a PC board with traces on it, connected to the three sockets on the back side and there is a wiper as the lower part of the lever which momentarily makes contact between the common and either of the two route traces. There is a flat, metal spring which maintains tension on the lever so it always returns to the neutral position so the switch coils don't burn out. Very reliable and I have never burnt out a coil with these. The Austrian version, although pretty much externally identical physically (the levers are shorter), are entirely different, internally. These have plastic "springs" as part of the lever molding and fairly flimsy contacts, which contact the rear of the sockets, directly, and the plastic springs return the lever to neutral when the lever is released. The problem is, the plastic "springs" fatigue and can break and so, the contacts can stay connected to the sockets, burning out the coils if not noticed that the lever isn't moving away from either end of its throw. An interesting thing about Atlas standard (some call them #4 but they aren't) switches is the the geometry was wrong (the curved rail diverges too soon and the point hinges are positioned incorrectly and the point rails are too short) all the way until the 2700 series which made the gauge in the point area too wide and wheels could drop down between the rails there. I corrected all mine so things move smoothly through them. Sorry this divergence from the thread subject got so long. Doug
The above should work. Let me know if there is a problem. I use the single resistor shown above and don't mind some intensity difference between the red and green and don't run mine near as bright as one could and not burn them out. If it does bother you then remove the single resistor and put a resistor on each of the other two poles of the DPDT switch and on the other side of it run to the two LED's that you want. the power supply for the LED's doesn't need to be much of one and will depend on how many LED's you want to power. I have a whole box of the 110 to 5-12 volt ones that powered small items that no longer work. If you have to buy one you can find them for under $10. Sumner
The parts shown above minus the power supplies come to about $3.50 per switch controller plus tax. 4 LED's $2.00 -- I really like using the small 0402 LED's now. Drill a 1/16" hole. Put the LED in it. Add a drop of CA and it holds it and acts like a lens. 1 DPDT $0.80 1 Button Switch $0.60 1 Resistor $0.06 If you wanted individual switch boxes at some locations.... https://1fatgmc.com/RailRoad/UP Canyon Division/page-169.html ... like what I do (above) and had a 3D printer you could print the ones I have up on thingiverse.com along with a number of different tops for different configurations of turnouts. Sumner
Thanks, Sumner, for taking the time and putting in the effort to post this diagram. I have all the parts expect for a momentary DPDT toggle and proper resistors which I have just ordered.
Sorry just noticed I screwed up with the wiring and didn't show the momentary pushbutton switch in it. I took another one and edited it where the switch was on the other side and forgot to put it back in. My bad hope you can change the order. The drawing above is what you need. You don't want a 'momentary DPDT toggle'. If you used it then the LED's won't stay on. The pushbutton momentarily sends the 'switch side' current of the DPDT to the switch machine and the current on the LED side stays on all the time. You could use a 'center off' DPDT if for some reason you wanted to turn the LED's off while the power supply is on. I don't do that, any time the 5 volt power supply is on to my switch control LED's they are all lit. Did you get an assortment of resistors so that you could play with the values until you got the intensity that you want. Could test with a pot and then read the resistance of it and order something close. Sumner
It's all good Sumner, as I knew a momentary switch was needed. Thanks for the update, the diagram is extremely helpful, not just for me but for anyone looking to do the same.
Worked a few hours at my desk today. I used the diagram offered by Sumner (which is much appreciated). I did have to modify for my particular momentary switch. Below is a short video of what I did and where I will try to take this project in the very near future.
Sumner, the way I have it hooked up right now is with a SPDT momentary toggle. I need to order a push button SPST momentary switch. The system works for me the way I have it, but not exactly as I want it. I do have a bunch of resistors, but most are rated a 1000 -ohm and above. I just received a bunch of 510-ohm resistors and hooked one up to each side. The green looks good, but red is still a bit bright for my liking. I do have a few 870-ohm resistors. I may try one on the red side.
