That's interesting you say that - my local train shop recommended a Kato DCC loco when I asked what brand. What brand would be better?
Kato! If you have a bad running Kato, it's either a lemon or the previous owner mucked around with it. Installing a decoder in a Kato SD70xxx is quite simple but you can decide for yourself. Although this is from TCS, Digitrax is very similar if not the same. https://tcsdcc.com/installation/n-scale/1655
Here is a part of my workbench today, I am trying to strip paint off of a KATO shell. Wow, tough stuff: Why strip the paint? I am going to do this with the same yellow that I put on my Rail Beast. I shall make an LNG tanker to run between the 2 units. I MAY tie up my workbench to do this challenging color scheme, problem is I do not have an ACe unit to donate to the project;
I.am.so.freaking.stoked. I took ya’ll advice and did some more laquer - the decals aren’t running. I could not be happier! Doing a test on model card really helped.
Before I purchase a loco, new or used, I always checkout Spookshow’s website. It’s an extensive review of the entire history of a model by a manufacturer-from initial issue decades ago to whatever came out. I just type in the brand, the prototype model, and Spookshow up pops his review in the search engine. FWIW: I’ve never had an issue with Kato (that I didn’t cause myself because I’ve got butterfingers) with either factory equipped DCC and my own installs. I’ve got 7x F40PH and 5x MPI36 (x5) in standard Metra scheme, 3x SD45s in WC/patched WC, and the 1x SD40-2 in NS/Maersk. Excellent runners, excellent pulling power. Only “problem” is that their top speed is well above what the prototypes can do. That’s an easy fix if you change CV values, no harder than changing the address. Or just ease up on the throttle. If Japanese prototypes are of interest to you I can confirm that the Kato DE10, N700A Shinkansen and a E231 commuters are good. Haven’t converted those to DCC yet, but all excellent runners. I’ve also had good results with Atlas GP models from the mid-90s to today. Decoder install can be a little harder the older they are. I’ve got a an SD60E on hand and another on the way. The SD60E was missing a light tube (I bought used) and I was able to adequately fix it using some leftover window glazing from a walthers kit. All are sturdy, and not complicated internally. I’ve got two SW1500 yard switchers by MTL-they do pretty good, but I’m not asking a lot from them in a yard. As far as other brands-I’ve got a BLI SW1200 and ES44AC (both sound) that I’m happy with. As far as other brands-I’ll find out in the next year or so. I’ve pre-ordered a couple of Athearns (F45 in WC, F59 in Metra/CNW heritage) and a ScaleTrains ET44 (CN/WC heritage). …and after writing this, I’m beginning to see why my wife thinks I have too many…
Lots of YouTube videos out there if you’re looking for different techniques. I’ll send putting another coat of dullcote down, but I heavily weather stuff anyways. You could probably put a gloss down if you wanted to weather with oils. I have tried that myself yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Lots of YouTube videos out there if you’re looking for different techniques. I’ll send putting another coat of dullcote down, but I heavily weather stuff anyways. You could probably put a gloss down if you wanted to weather with oils. I have tried that myself yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Being very happy with my last powered critter TGW 14064 I decided to order a trailer car by the same folks TGW 14055 which also happens to be powered. 100_1611-3 by John Moore posted Feb 3, 2022 at 3:39 PM Now this car like the first comes with add on parts and somehow when adding parts the thick gap filling ACC managed to get in and gum up the works, nabdrabbitt. To cut to the quick I managed to mess up the little can motor mechanism in trying to set things right So I went to my Japan site and found a new small mechanism that would fit. This critter shell is only 44 mm long. I came up with the TomTec TM-TR07 which is 45 mm long and I suspected that I might have to graft an engine hood onto the shell. So I came up with an 1930s era truck hood. 100_1618-1 by John Moore posted Feb 9, 2022 at 9:36 PM 100_1621-1 by John Moore posted Feb 10, 2022 at 11:43 AM Now the replacement mechanism came with removable weights and a set of side frames plus another weight and some add on parts. Found the with the sideframes it fit perfectly with the little bit of extra space provided by the addition of the engine hood. Americanizing both critters was simple with the addition of a roof level headlight instead of low mount, a bell, and an airhorn. Both critters where made bi-directional by the simple addition of a rear high mount headlight. Now the 2nd critter is more powerful than the first because of the replacement mechanism. So I decided on a small trailer car for it and built a little 23 foot long boxcar on the old under frame from the 2nd cars now defunct mechanism. 100_1624-1 by John Moore posted Feb 12, 2022 at 5:09 PM I used Kato two piece couplers that are my go to to replace Crapido couplers since most of the time they are a simple drop in and work fine with MTs. A few places I used Unimates like in the front pilot of the first critter. I have decided on trailer cars for both criiters so have ordered some very short 45 mm long passenger cars from Japan that should arrive this week along with 3 more packs of Kato couplers. The little boxcar is designed to always be the end trailer car and as such has red lights mounted at either end. So I started with a critter with a trailer and ended up with two critters and trailers. I got lucky with the paint also because what they call Grape color is a match for my Vallejo burnt umber. 100_1628-1 by John Moore posted Feb 14, 2022 at 8:37 AM
First go round with the gluing jig. I like it, BUT the magnets are so strong making adjustments is a little bit of a challenge.
How can you have too much track? I'm thinking maybe I should get one of those magnetic jigs. I have a lot of little magnets. Then maybe I could at least build something with in budget. Richard
I'm thinking maybe a machinist square might be in order but I can't find one online. One thing I did notice is the 2 of the corners are "open" where the press machine stamps or folds the corners, they're not exactly German engineered but pretty good. Well I was sort of shooting the money gun with this track design - I shoulda found someone like Robert from the start and not changed my plan but live and learn right?
Small snare. Need some advice from the pros So if I put these doors in like the box and plans, it lifts the foundation off the ground. Do I do that and fill around the walls with some sort of gravel, scenic material? Or glue the building down properly and just wing the doors on the outside? I ask because this model does fit track into the structure. Any gluing I do of the doors will impact if I can ever use this with rolling stock. Thanks!
In cleaning the garage out this past weekend, I happened upon a box of locomotives with decoders installed. Must be a bunch that were to be speed matched and then COVID and other issues happened. There are 20 locomotives in the box so it is time to put them on the programming trach and see what is what with these locomotives.
After looking at that door, I think I'd trim a millimeter off the top. Hmm... I'd try to find a door with a window in it...
I could trim the door I just thought it would look trimmed but I guess I could also use my sand block and just go at it and see if I can get a better fit. Thanks!
