Looking at the plan, it's quite good. But those industrial spurs don't seem to be connected with the outside world? Boxcab E50
oops... the intent was just to highlight how I thought the spur lines could be utilized in lieu of the humongo stage area I used Illustrator for the track plan (same one used on mine - which I think I still have a sample in the webshots albums) including the hypothetical bridge idea: I see that you want to recess the inner area... why not elevate it so you can see it from the outside at eye level? [ 11. November 2004, 00:19: Message edited by: nscale_lover ]
Mike that is a great idea and would make the "Gryphin Car Works" a center piece. The downside is that it would block the smooth curve in the back which I intend to use for photographic purposes. Think of the bridge that Colonel displays is work on: Colonel's Bridge Focal / Photographic Point But you have given me an idea. The Gryphin Car Works tracks will fit under the main line curve I could use that for extra storage. BTW: Pictures of Oil tanks with a wall. I was at that club layout today. It looks like they used quarter round pieces. of wood. Oil Tank Farm [ 11. November 2004, 03:14: Message edited by: Grey Gryphin ]
Grey, I think getting away from the bridge over the yard is the best dang thing you've done. If you hafta have a bridge (and who doesnt!), try banking in a stream in the top right and run a bridge across that.....
disisme, eliminating the bridge hurt like having a tooth pulled but I agree. I may omit the bridge for now. If the foam allows me to cut or melt? into it then I could add it later. Mike I re read your post about the yard area. I love the idea of a big yard but will most likely make the final decision when I physically lay the track out and see just how much space it takes up. One of the big factors is track spacing and such. I know most of the turnouts are way way off.
Geeky, I really owe design credits to the origins. It started as a Point to point running from the yard to the industrial section. For the most part all I did was add a loop and length to it. Mike. If I can cut / melt the foam away I just might do that though I will try to make a “open DIMM / SIMM” bridge. It would look like an open girder bridge but the edges would be DIMMs an SIMMs. Yes I am serious. Does anyone know easy it is to carve or can I melt the foam?. In my mind I will have 3 layers.
NO melting! Melting is smelly. Well you can do it but it seems most just slice and dice. For that you want to use bread knives and a drywall tool.
The Xacto saw works wonders! Or drywall saw. Add that to you shopping list... I agree with NO melting!
Thanks guys. I was hopining you would say that. I have an answer all ready but I didn't know about the tool you mentioned. Now. seems all i need is a week off A bottle of good red A thrapist apointment A new boss, (mine quit)
Grey, you can use an electric knife to cut your foam too if your really lazy like me Just dont let the wife catch ya!
disisme - I am very very lazy and it is one of the reasons I dont' have a wife. um, I also don't have an electric knife. ( My X wife kept the first one and my X fiance took the 2nd when she left) Hmm, see a paturn here? Now ya know why I have a 3 bedroom place .....
Okay, I'm late to the party. Now I know why I missed this thread before, I've never been to this particular part of the forums. I read quickly through the saga. I'll have some comments later this week when I get back in town and have more time to flesh them out. A couple of quick ones, though. 1. You say the door is 28"? I don't suppose you'd consider trading it back in for a 36" one (mine is 36") would you? It would make a big difference. Or simply buy another and keep the 28" door for future expansion. 2. Since you're building on a door, I assume this will be portable? I mean you're not going to build some massive support system for it are you? Because if photography of the big curve is important, you can always move the layout when you want to shoot the curve and shoot from the back side. Or were you planning on putting a backdrop along that side? 3. Have you tried a simple layout design program like Atlas's RTS freeware? Not a lot of fancy bells and whistles but it should be a help to you in getting the switches and curves right. Okay, more comments later. Ed
Ed, Thanks for the comments. Not too late since I have not ordered the foam, lumber or track yet.. 1) Interesting that you mention changing doors. I may just do it for very different reasons. If you look at the pics in the N scale forum, (I just posted), you might notice the age of the table. It is about 20yo. It was my father’s desk and I was just thinking maybe I will make it my work bench and do just what you suggest, (get a larger door) 2) It will be semi portable. I do plan on doing the photography from the “south” edge of the table but who knows? You have opened my mind. 3) Yes, I gave the Atlas RTS a go but it was just tooo finicky for my liking. I figure I’ll: i. Mark the curves at the western, (left end) ii. Lay out the south side straights iii. Lay the western main line curves iv. See what flows next. The main part is doing it slowly so I’m not ripping it up later. Of course this is a fantasy but I’ll try. Thanks for posting.
Hi Grey, all I can say is just get started and don't get caught up in "analysys paralysys". There comes a time when a design is 80% good on paper and you just need to start building the project. Blueprints always change with prototypes are built - it is impossible to get it right in papar w/o building it first. It's kind of circular logic in a way, plans allow the project to be built, but plans will never be finished until the project is completed. So yeah, just have fun and try things that you think will work, and if they don't, at least you are further down the road in knowing what not to try next!
I guess the door will provide enough support without too much weight - I know I've been thrilled with the support to weight ration of the 2" foam base I'm using.
Grey Okay, I’ve looked a long time at the plan and have a number of suggestions. Keep in mind that I obviously look at a layout differently than you, and have a different set of parameters in my mind. So feel free to disregard anything I suggest. It’s only based on my own likes and dislikes. Hope this doesn’t come across as too critical, but here goes. I’m also going to work up a rts sketch (not exact) that might illustrate some of my points and give you some ideas. It will be based on a 36”door. 1. If you really plan on running short trains, then I think having a yard that big is wrong. It overpowers the entire layout and becomes the focal point, plus taking space that could be used for operation or scenery. I suggest scaling it back. 2. Curved yard lead will be very difficult to use because of the problems with coupling on sharp curves. I suspect you curved it around to the top only because that was the first straight portion of the mainline where you could relocate a switch. 3. Engine facility coming off inside of yard is awkward and hard to operate, I suggest relocating it so that it comes of the yard lead. 4. The branch line coming off the inside of the yard is equally awkward, I also suggest relocating it so that it comes of the yard lead. 5. You have only one spur off the mainline. So mainline running will be virtually all just running in circles. I think this will get old quickly. I suggest you relocate a couple of the spurs from the branch line to the main. 6. Think carefully about any grades. Calculate where the grade has to start and end, because any cars you spot on track with a grade will tend to roll away, making it hard to switch industries if the cars have to be left on a grade while the engine switches the spur. That includes my suggestion to keep the yard and yard lead flat. Do not put this on a slope. I have worked up a possible suggestion trackplan. You can see it at my railimages album (it's now the last photo) http://www.railimages.com/gallery/edmurphy. let's see if I can successfully post it here. Should be clickable to enlarge. If you want I can email you a jpeg version (~50k) that you can open in 'paint'. I'd need your email address to send it. I also have the rts file, but it's a lot bigger (700k). Notes on the trackplan: 1. I used #4 turnouts (Atlas Standard) to give you the most space. 2. I used only 9-3/4” and 11” radius curves. You might try opening them up a little with flextrack. 3. I tried to allow as much space as possible between tracks to allow some possibility for scenery. 4. I think the yard could be cut down even further. 5. I did not add switch spurs from the branch line to the main, but still think you ought to switch (or add) at least one more spur/industry to the main. Again, comments are based on what I like, and may not be aligned with what you like. Regards [ 19. November 2004, 13:44: Message edited by: Ed M ]
Ed Thank you. Those are great comments. Not too critical at all. The track plan you did for me is outstanding. I can’t thank you enough. It really cuts to the chase just how much space I have and what I can do to keep the over all intent. I will likely adopt many of your changes. The biggest is moving the branch to Spurlund and the Engine Terminal. Certainly what you have designed is far easier to build, (which could be a very good thing). If I do build your design I will make the following changes: I will try to make a compound yard and put the run around track at the top. I will put in nscale lovers’s suggestion of a run around in “Spurlund”. Where the Factory, Plant and Car Works are. I will add a strait section just past the first curve leading to Spurlund. This should give a bit more room for the yard and engine terminal or adding tracks to the Car Works. But IF I don’t please don’t be offended. I really want to depress the Spurlund area in order to separate it from the rest of the layout. Running the branch from the upper part of the yard will allow that and maintain level spur tracks. Yes for the most part I have an oval for running. That is ok. This plan really is for practice. One of the things I have not mentioned much or emphasized is this will become part of a much larger layout some day. Currently I see the Eastern side of the loop being removed and the main line connecting at the top someplace around row 1 column 6. in your plan. At the Western end the mainline will continue west and the entire Gryphin and Grandure will become a short line supplying Mysterium and such to the world. Once again, thank you. If you like I will happily find a way to use your name somewhere on the layout if you like. I would be honored. The Grateful Grey Gryphin Gryns
