Torsja, New Haven had some wooden 36' boxcars the were re-built and lasted into the diesel era: http://www.steamfreightcars.com/gallery/boxauto/nh172050main.html http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/nh/nh72344.jpg I built one in N scale from a MDC car: http://www.trainboard.com/railimages/data/511/NHboxcar.JPG I also have scale drawings of this car. If you would like them let me know.
Been trying to get my station in order. It's one of Roberts kits that was shortened and the roof was changed. I used N scale ultra shingles from new rail models. Also added the signal used to tell the train if it had any orders to pick up. http://www.gsmrrclub.org/HISTORY/images/goshen1.jpg http://www.usgennet.org/usa/ny/coun...ureFolder/OriginalPix-Shawmut/Shawmut 070.jpg
I made a fantasy SP covered hopper out of the pennsy, result: Great, untill i started to weather it.. the decals just fell of on one of the sides, any tips how to "seal" the decals? This side went ok:
That order semaphore is so cool! The Issaquah depot only had the tiny red order semaphore seen here: The Northern Pacific usually had order semaphored like the one on your model, and now i can see I need to get some. Where did you get it? is it scratchbuilt or commercial?
Hi Henrik, Nice work! What I do is spray Dullcote on after decals and before weathering so the decals stay in tact. I don't know what they call dullcote at the North Pole, but the generic term is Flat Clear Overcoat, so it should be available at your hobby shop. Probably Humbrol sells it. Keep up the great work! it is nice to see custom decal work and repaints.
It was made out of pieces etched of .005" brass, some .032" & .010" rod and a small square of styrene. HenrikH, You can seal decals with Dullcote. Testors also make a spray just for sealing decals, but Dullcote will work too. What method did you use to weather? maybe that had a bad reaction with the decals.
I have dullcoat, but not in spray form, so if i brush it on i destroy the paint and the decals. My wheathering technique is to soak the vagon in thinned black acryllic paint and then vipe it of with a papertowel. I know this is a pretty drastic way to do it but i works on mtl, but not on my own applyed decals... I have better wheatering examples then this one...( not to satisfied with the "dirt" job this time.)
Robert or anyone. Can you please link me to a place that has the dullcoate in spray form? I cant find it anywhere?! I need the number for it!
You can get it at Testor's. I now order all my paint directly from Testor's as all the colors are always available and the quantity I order is very small. I do try to order only once every 4-6 months.
Creativity in the making! John, Chris has embarked on the road to expanded mental knowledge in the construction arts of Z scale. The semaphore you are enquiring about was etched from a sheet of .005 brass. Chris has become the next Home Etcher within the group of "Z". He is doing some outstanding work! Great Job Chris! Hobo Tim
Chris, while you etching, hope you were doing them in frets of 100 Be glad to get 10 from you for an undetermined amount of cash or I'll get Robert to slice something up for you (we're going to share anyway). Henrik: Testors may have limited distribution up there. Check their website for the Euro distributors and dealers but if you already have liquid DullCote, wherever you bought it should be able to get the spray (but obviously will take some time). You can likely find a similar product as I told Jürg when I was at his place. Check for any model airplane or car hobby shop as they put decals on the same way.
My workbench Some car production is now on my workbench for the moment. It's my version off a 36' wooden boxcar. Probably not 100% accurate but I go for the "good enough" approach look and feel. If not I'm never gone finish any project I start on.
The Dullcote isn't even dry yet on this one: I cut the sills off and replaced it with a strip of styrene that ran from one bolster to the other. Then I took a Youngstown door off a 50' boxcar and narrowed it down to fit a 40' car. I wish MT would make the 40 footers with correct doors!
you are spot on again Chris! I think they do it because until very recently (and for majority still today) nobody treats Z as a "modelling" scale - it is still treated as a curiosity, toy etc. Do you think that the guys building briefcase "layouts" care about things like that (btw nothing against them, they have every right to enjoy themselves the way they want) Other side of the story is the mentality that says - we are grateful for anything regardless how good it is ... because until very recently so little was available at all... It will change as the Z grows, I am sure Chris
Nice mod Chris! Nice prototype choice too! Over the course of the past year I have seen you do quite a bit of Z Scale modeling, ranging from handlaying code 40 turnouts and track, building a small layout, and protobashing quite a roster of cars. 1 year ago you were modeling N and just dabbling in Z to see if you could do it, and now you have been bitten by the Z Bug, and are taking on ever more challenging modeling projects, with etched brass being one of your latest skills aquired. So looking back at your progress, I would have to say that dabbling with Z Scale has dramaticly improved your modeling skills, would'nt you say?
I don't think MT singles out Z scale. The N scale Erie boxcar this month is wrong (shouldn't have a black outline around the diamond) The last time they printed it, it was wrong (had a shadow around the diamond. They did a Erie hopper a while back, it's wrong (yellow diamond when it should be white) The EL/Erie depressed flatcar is wrong (has the wrong number for the length it is) Oh well, that's why they call us "modelers" I guess. Robert, your right about all of it. Just don't tell the N scale guys I haven't touched the stuff in that year mg: :teeth: :zip: BTW Thanks to Anthony at Z scale monster for getting me these MT parts. I'm not buying brass locomotives here, he's going out of his way for a $3 part :thumbs_up:
This was printed in one of the magazines and seems to work pretty well for viewing trucks that seem to want to go their way and not the way you want. Bottom section is just cut from a piece of blister packaging. Upper layer is the same but covers only part of the car so you can see better. Next time do not use CA liquid but use CA Gel. The liquid flows and seems to fog the clear plastic. BTW it solved a perplexing problem of track alignment. ...don